The approach

All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Pinkham / P… > 05. Huntington… > Northeast Ridge of th… (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

The approach

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Fairy Tale Traverse from the Huntington Ravine Trail

This is the correct angle of the cover page photo. Still a spectacular position. From Aug 2012.

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5.0 from 2 votes

LB Edwards

Jul 15, 2019

“The approach”

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Nearby Photos

Matt Bowman on the Fairy Tale Traverse pitch. © Brent Doscher Photography, 2017

Greg Petrics and Walter Howe photo of the Allis Chimney : http://www.famousinternetskiers.com/the-pinnacle-butt-rest/2/

The Fairy Tale Traverse variation of the last pitch - a must do!

Location/detail of pitches 3 and 6.

The awesome "Fairy Tale Traverse." Super exposed!

Fairy Tale Traverse from the Huntington Ravine Trail

The approach

This is the correct angle of the cover page photo. Still a spectacular position. From Aug 2012.

Looking up at the 5.8 variation. At least 5 old pins in there.

First pitches

The initial moves to get into the Chimney are very committing, above me the chimney narrows and there is a chockstone. Bring a LONG sling. mine was too short to sling it and I had to run it out. I recommend a backpack leash so you can dangle it, its tight

Mia cruising the traverse, loving every second!

TOPO map of the first 4 of the 7 pitches seen hiking up from the "bottom"-approach (i.e. from the AMC Pinkham Notch "camp")

Winter Pinnacle

Jeff after completing the final technical (easy) moves of pitch 6, just before the fairytale traverse, right before the sun sets.

Fairy-tale traverse and final corner. Super fun climbing on great rock.

Beginning the traverse

Lost on P1 Peter Anania and Phil Shenett did this variation, an airy 5.8 said Pete..

Jeff following the 3rd pitch

This is the line we took to get to the chimney. Felt like 5.8 moves

Goes by feet too!

Winter Pinnacle

Cruz pitch. Felt a little soft for grade

This is the corner before the corner that leads this the traverse. The photographer's partner had just finished the traverse and kindly snapped a picture of me.

Looking up from the "huge" (3mx3m) belay toward the scramble + steep step passage of pitch 6

Exposure is nuts.

This is where you want to approach the Fairy Tale from, at the top of the 5.6 step, look for a place you can sneak around the ridge to the right, this takes you here. Very easy to miss.

The Fairy Tale Traverse from above

end of the fairy tale traverse

With for the right sunlight (...and some color filters) one can see the useful texture on the otherwise "flat-looking" slab of the Fairy Tale Traverse

The start of pitch 1 is just few minutes off from the bottom of the steep slab on the Hungtinton Ravine trail

Free Solo Front Entrance

Doug popping out of the 5.7 Chimney.

The slightly easier corner at the start of pitch 2 (or at the end of pitch 1 according to other descriptions), not to be confused with the "similar looking" but harder corner at the start of pitch 3 shown in many other posted pictures,.

Looking "climber-LEFT" toward the downclimb from the top-anchor of the crux-corner pitch 3. The super-awesome photo at https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/118803435 by Patrics & Howe blended with the historic photo by Allis had me a bit confused before

Waiting for the sun to be at the right angle one can see the useful texture on the otherwise flat-looking slab of the Fairy Tale Traverse

Looking down the slippery corner/awkward mantel pitch,. Belay on small gear.

The top

A successful crew at the summit

The Pinnacle in late October.

The enormous pitch 5 belay ledge

The route from Huntington Ravine Trail.

in all it's glory

Pitch 3

2nd pitch

From the parking lot near the top of the autoroad one cannot miss the 2m high cairns on the approach (Huntington Ravine trail).

J. Stewart on Pinnacle Buttress' "Fairyland Traverse."

As others have noted, the 5.8 variation is easy to navigate, just follow the pins! They actually don't look sooo bad.

Looking down over the ridge.

From the top of route it is just 10min walkoff to the traversing Alpine Garden trail. The Huntington Ravine trail will then be 5min on the right.

The Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle

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