The approach

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The approach

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Fairy Tale Traverse from the Huntington Ravine Trail

Looking up at the 5.8 variation. At least 5 old pins in there.

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Albi Eds

Jul 15, 2019

“The approach”

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Nearby Photos

Matt Bowman on the Fairy Tale Traverse pitch. © Brent Doscher Photography, 2017

Greg Petrics and Walter Howe photo of the Allis Chimney : http://www.famousinternetskiers.com/the-pinnacle-butt-rest/2/

The Fairy Tale Traverse variation of the last pitch - a must do!

Location/detail of pitches 3 and 6.

The awesome "Fairy Tale Traverse." Super exposed!

Fairy Tale Traverse from the Huntington Ravine Trail

The approach

Looking up at the 5.8 variation. At least 5 old pins in there.

This is the correct angle of the cover page photo. Still a spectacular position. From Aug 2012.

The initial moves to get into the Chimney are very committing, above me the chimney narrows and there is a chockstone. Bring a LONG sling. mine was too short to sling it and I had to run it out. I recommend a backpack leash so you can dangle it, its tight

Mia cruising the traverse, loving every second!

Jeff after completing the final technical (easy) moves of pitch 6, just before the fairytale traverse, right before the sun sets.

First pitches

Beginning the traverse

Jeff following the 3rd pitch

Lost on P1 Peter Anania and Phil Shenett did this variation, an airy 5.8 said Pete..

This is the line we took to get to the chimney. Felt like 5.8 moves

Goes by feet too!

Cruz pitch. Felt a little soft for grade

This is where you want to approach the Fairy Tale from, at the top of the 5.6 step, look for a place you can sneak around the ridge to the right, this takes you here. Very easy to miss.

This is the corner before the corner that leads this the traverse. The photographer's partner had just finished the traverse and kindly snapped a picture of me.

The Fairy Tale Traverse from above

end of the fairy tale traverse

The enormous pitch 5 belay ledge

2nd pitch

in all it's glory

Exposure is nuts.

Looking down the slippery corner/awkward mantel pitch,. Belay on small gear.

Doug popping out of the 5.7 Chimney.

Free Solo Front Entrance

The top

The route from Huntington Ravine Trail.

J. Stewart on Pinnacle Buttress' "Fairyland Traverse."

A successful crew at the summit

Pitch 3

Fairy-tale traverse and final corner. Super fun climbing on great rock.

As others have noted, the 5.8 variation is easy to navigate, just follow the pins! They actually don't look sooo bad.

Looking down over the ridge.

The Pinnacle in late October.

The Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle