Alpine Approach (5/27/19) mild snow conditions, axe not needed but recommended.

All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Darrington & Mt… > Glacier Peak Wi… > Morning Star Peak > Mile High Club (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a)

Alpine Approach (5/27/19) mild snow conditions, axe not needed but recommended.

ID 117042996 ·

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Nick Roy stoked to fire the money pitch on Mile High Club.

Top of pitch 5

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3.8 from 4 votes

Raphael Hyde

May 29, 2019

“Alpine Approach (5/27/19) mild snow conditions, axe not needed but recommended.”

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Nearby Photos

The route as seen from below

Pitch 6 (best one) nice face climb to the arète

Approach: Pass just above this large flat-topped boulder near the first set of trees (as noted in the Approach description).

Location of the P3 intermediate Rappel anchor seen from the P2 anchors.
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Id recommend rapping just skiers left of the bolt line for P3 until you reach the headwall section. Keep going until right before the drop off then look skiers left to the nook

Start of P1

Sean coming up the arete as we pass into the sunshine. Fitz Roy in the background.

Vega North topo with the Mile High Club and Beyond Redlining routes

Looking up at the intermediate rap station of pitch 3 from the top of pitch 2. Go slightly climbers left from P3 rap station to find intermediate station. When in doubt, look out left

Looking down Mile High Club.

Just before topping out on the Dihedral pitch.

Topo of Vega North Tower showing Mile High Club (MHC) and Beyond Redlining

Pitch 5 - Nice small roof with slab to your left

Nick Roy stoked to fire the money pitch on Mile High Club.

Alpine Approach (5/27/19) mild snow conditions, axe not needed but recommended.

Top of pitch 5

Forest coming up p6

Beautiful rap down!

Approach to Mile High Club in early season (June 23rd 2018)

Looking up last third of route.

Looking up the last third of the route.

Rapping to the intermediate rappel station. Lowest climber (with orange helmet/white shirt) is at the intermediate, hidden rap station. The description says "10 foot tall tree" but it doesn't look very tall from above.

Robby leading pitch #6, August 1, 2022.

Robby following pitch #5, August 1, 2022.

Afternoon sun on the buttress

The sharp corner of the first rappel seems to grounded down.

Brilliant top out!

Route overlay from approach (Small red dots = Belays)

Scramble up from the red-colored rock to get to the lone pine shown in red. This roughly marks the start of P1. Round the corner from this pine and you’ll see the line

Camille as at the intermediate rap anchor on P3 viewed from the P2 anchor. Remember this on your way up, it's tricky to find that anchor on the rap.

Excellent positioning on the final pitch.

For spring reference, ascend and descend the finger. Ramps up and left.

Climbers nearing the top

Me half way up the stellar dihedral pitch!

Contemplating the crux on p5

Southwest view from the top

rope leads from intermediate rap anchor (bottom of pic) to rap anchor at top of p3 (top of pic). Felt like I could've used a photo like this when searching for it...

P5 dihedral, entirely too much fun

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