Pitch 1 Tree Option: 2014 and 2019. Several broken branches make this no longer the preferred start to the route.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Chief > Sheriff's Badge > Angel's Crest (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Pitch 1 Tree Option: 2014 and 2019. Several broken branches make this no longer the preferred start to the route.

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Leading the Angel Crack

How large is the 10b offwidth? The Unbearable Lightness of Burly Angels.

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4.5 from 4 votes

Steph Abegg

May 12, 2019

“Pitch 1 Tree Option: 2014 and 2019. Several broken branches make this no longer the preferred start to the route.”

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After the Acrophobes.

The splitter 5.10b offwidth variation to pitch 7. Isn't it beautiful? I'm a sucker for offwidths... Too bad the #5 I lugged up there wouldn't do anything for me.

Dan leading the 5.10b offwidth. He used a BD #6 for the first 1/3, then a VG 9 for the 2/3. Sort of ran it out until closer to the top where he could place a nut and a BD 0.5.<br>
I tried this on top-rope and felt like it was impossible. Master the heel-toe cam and you should be good.

Daniel, feeling psyched on the exposure of the Acrophobes. You can see the rest of the route in the distance.

Leading the Angel Crack

Pitch 1 Tree Option: 2014 and 2019. Several broken branches make this no longer the preferred start to the route.

How large is the 10b offwidth? The Unbearable Lightness of Burly Angels.

The Whaleback at the top of Pitch 11.

Pitch 8, 5.9 crack.

A stitched together panoramic of the north walls of the Chief taken from the loop trail in the Smoke Bluffs just above the far right side of Ronin's Corner.<br>
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Angel's Crest runs up the edge visible in the middle of the image, just left of the Sheriff's Badge.

Pitch 12.

Flex starting up the Angel Crack (pitch 2) photo by Jeff Kennedy

Flex belaying on one of the aptly named Acrophobe Towers. photo by Jeff Kennedy

Looking up from the base of Pitch 1, 5.7 groove option (this starts on a ledge above the bushy corner).

Looking down the North Gully of the Chief. The Acrophobe towers are visible in the lower middle of the shot. The finishing pitches are just around the corner of the buttress on the right. The building in the upper middle with the brown roof is the hospital. The Smoke Bluffs are just out of sight at the top of the image.

P2: The Angel Crack

Nearing the end of an awesome pitch

The second to last pitch is stellar. I was blown out from leading the first five pitches of borderline linking into angels and gave this lead to my partner. That was a mistake.

Cool light on the "sting in the tail" (P12/13)

Looking up at the headwall from below the Acrophobes

Climbing up the last 5.10a pitch. The Acrophobe's Traverse can be seen in the top right.

Conrad Gmoser atop the Acrophobes', at the belay

Pitch 11 variation (10a).

the tree start is a must do!

The totem along the forest scramble below the Acrophobes

One more pitch to go!

Top of the Angel's Crack pitch

Climbing up the fist crack on pitch 10, and loving it. Look at the view!

Flex finishing off the last few moves of Angel's Crest. photo by Jeff Kennedy

P12

Slabby bolted face on Pitch 1 (10b option).

The second half of Pitch 1 (10 option). We broke it up into 2 pitches. There is a bolted anchor halfway.

Looking up Pitch 1 (10b option).

10a crack on Pitch 12.

The Acrophobes pitch

Pitch 8 offwidth variation (10a).

Bushy corner that leads to 5.7 groove option for Pitch 1.

Rap anchor to start of Pitch 10.

The Acrophobes (Pitch 9) of Angel's Crest