This photo topo was a joint effort between Dave Dillon of Chase the Summit and myself. A detailed route guide is here: https://northeastalpinestart.com/2019/01/10/route-guide-climbing-the-black-dike/

All Locations > New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > - Franconia Notch > Cannon Ice Climbs > Black Dike (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3)

This photo topo was a joint effort between Dave Dillon of Chase the Summit and myself. A detailed route guide is here: https://northeastalpinestart.com/2019/01/10/route-guide-climbing-the-black-dike/

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John Bouchard on P1 in 1975. With him that day was Jean-Claude Droyer and myself. I was so embarrassed when I felt like I needed to ask for a rope on this pitch. John was John but he graciously threw down a rope so I could follow with a belay.

Black Dike Rescue 2/4/17 Up to 24 climbers and rescue personnel assisted in the successful rescue of an injured climber from the Black Dike.

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David Lottmann

Jan 10, 2019

“This photo topo was a joint effort between Dave Dillon of Chase the Summit and myself. A detailed route guide is here: https://northeastalpinestart.com/2019/01/10/route-guide-climbing-the-black-dike/”

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Nearby Photos

Traverse into crux at the beginning of the second pitch. Photo by Paul Crowder, 1989.

Me on the second pitch, shot by Dave Dillon of Chase the Summit

Bryan Becker negotiating the 'rock traverse' in 1977. He was climbing with Alain Comeau, while I was on Fafnir with Mark Whiton.

The 'Phez' (Jeff Pheasant) at the top of the 2nd pitch - late winter 1976.

Black Dike. Incredible, wind-swept ice fomations on the last pitch (WI2-3). 01 March '09.

Overexcited

John Bouchard on P1 in 1975. With him that day was Jean-Claude Droyer and myself. I was so embarrassed when I felt like I needed to ask for a rope on this pitch. John was John but he graciously threw down a rope so I could follow with a belay.

This photo topo was a joint effort between Dave Dillon of Chase the Summit and myself. A detailed route guide is here: https://northeastalpinestart.com/2019/01/10/route-guide-climbing-the-black-dike/

Black Dike Rescue 2/4/17 Up to 24 climbers and rescue personnel assisted in the successful rescue of an injured climber from the Black Dike.

Black Dike, March, 2005. The lower part of the ice section was "out". Pat McCarthy and I climbed the lower section to the right and traversed left into the ice fall. We found some pitons on the first pitch.

Negotiating the rock traverse February 23, 2017.

black dike/fafnir area

Mid February, 2012

Saturday, February 11, 2012

Starting up the second pitch. Full moon on 4.4.15

Nick doing the famous rock traverse, although he is a bit higher than its typically done. You can see piton sling mess of the usual traverse in the bottom left corner. There is a permanent 0.3 X4 cam where he is as of 2019, new pro....

Black Dike in marginal conditions, March, 2005.

A "distant view" for scale and perspective ... not sure if this represents "typical" ice ...<br>
<br>
Whitney Gilman climbing route on the left side of the Black Dike<br>

The low rock traverse into the ice runnel. 12.15.21

Pitch Two In Prime Condition

Rob Garneau cruising the crux - March 2015

Black Dike Rescue - photo 2

Approaching the Black Dike January 2018.

Black Dike Rescue - photo 4

Black Dike Rescue - photo 3

Matt D coming up to a screw anchor at the fat end of P2. 12/18/21

Dan Kilburn at the Traverse

Kevin McDermott leading the rock traverse 1/7/21

Jan 2022 conditions exceptionally fat and picked out made for cake walk conditions

Ray in the rock traverse, without ice to swing into after the traverse and continuing mixed/drytooling this does not go at M3.

April 7th 2024. Tom Lasky coming up the last crux on P2 (awesome mixed climbing conditions)

Pitch 2. Mixed traverse towards the ice fall.

Ryan Barber at belay on top of second pitch.

Bradley White ready for pitch 3.

Pitch 2

Pete A below the Crux Traverse

Headed up to the Dike for an early season accent 11/30/21

Finish of the steep ice on the second pitch.

Pat emerging from the end of Pitch 2.

Looking down while on the second pitch.

Shawn crushing the thin and bubbly second pitch.

someone on the dike

Looking up from start of Pitch 3 (Feb 2017)

Mary Erdei and Ken Sims at the TOP of the 'BLACK DIKE' in 1980

Full route from the base, very thin to no ice conditions on majority of the route

Mary Erdei and Ken SIms enjoying the warm afternoon sun while pausing in the 'rut' while descending from the 'Dike' in March 1980

Ray getting to the p1 belay. The only ice found on this pitch

the Black Dike in great condition with a party at the first belay.

Rob Garneau leading the 2nd pitch - March 2015

Dan Cousins on p3 (Warthogs were used in "Turf")

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