Cave before start of pitch 12

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Kyhv Peak > [Redacted] (5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c)

Cave before start of pitch 12

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Christian Burrell coiling the rope on top of pitch 11. Sep 2010. Provo Peak (11,068') is in the background.

Totally bomber pro from one of my early forays onto Squaw Peak.

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Steve Miller

Oct 21, 2018

“Cave before start of pitch 12”

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Nearby Photos

Topo with some retreat options marked.

Totally bomber pro from one of my early forays onto Squaw Peak.

Squaw Peak from Y Mountain

Nice shade right before the 12th pitch

Cool view of pitches 3-8

Me topping out at the summit. Too stoked to get my shoes off.

Summit photo with Rollin

Thomas Gappmayer enjoying the belay before pitch 16.

Flapper 1 of 5 on this climb. Bring your A-game, bring motivation, bring ibuprofen, and BRING TAPE!
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*Note that it can also come in handy if your old shoes randomly decide to rip in half with 12 pitches to go...

The "crux" pitch 14 linked into 15 (although I felt a couple other pitches were perhaps more technical than pitch 14).

A view of Guy at the cave with another group headed up pitch 12.

Near the top - Pitch 22 of Squawstruck

Pitches 3-8. Couple of parties are visible at the top of pitch 6.

Jack Powers Mid route checking out the bivy cave at about 2AM!

Tristan after the leap of faith headed up pitch 2.

Pitch two. Fun blocky climbing to a corner which demands good footwork.

Bolt missing hanger on pitch 22.

The view from the top of pitch 1 to the top of pitch 2.

My favorite pitch in the first 8: Frosted Flakes. Just look at how white the limestone is! And it is very solid with great holds and a fantastic roof with a perfect jug for pulling.

Jack getting airy on Pitch 20(?)

Map of the descent trail.

Tristan moving up to the rest before the hard crux of pitch 14. This was the high point on our FA attempt.

The cave/mine at the base of pitch 12 is a great place to have lunch in the shade.

Thomas Gappmayer at the belay on top of pitch 22. Success!

Tristan and Thomas on pitch 16, taken from the trail.

Diving Board, a short walk west from top of Pitch 8

Alexis Crellin after Pitch 14 roof.

Brennan sending the thin Pitch 19

Eric E. on the 14th corner pitch- Sept 2015

View from the top

3AM top-out!
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There are several different walls on this route. Even though we studied the topo beforehand, we got lost looking for the summit wall at night (it's much further to the right than I thought). Bring headlamps and be ready to climb at night!

Best thing I've done in the 4 times I've done this route: write down the links with their bolt counts and lengths on my phone so I didn't have to constantly open my phone or unfold my topo.

Starting up pitch one.

Can't miss the diving board atop pitch 8, make sure to wave to the hikers

Beginning the last few pitches on the uppermost headwall.

Leading the 8th pitch of squawstruck

Kip working towards the cruxy section

Jack onsights Pitch 19

Looking down at the top of the Pitch 1 buttress from a little ways up Pitch 2.

Me on pitch 3. Dec 2008.

Enjoying a fine fall day high on the route

Pitch 12 with cave at base

Shot from top of Squaw Peak just after sunset

near pitch 17

Looking upcanyon

Start of pitch 3. This shows the walk between the top of two and the start of 3.

Pitch one of the behemoth

Starting up the crux pitch

Looking back across the leap of faith to Christian belaying from the pitch 1 tower.

Approach beta pic.

Rachel linking pitch 14 (5.11-) and pitch 15 (5.10b) into a 110ft pitch. Sept 20, 2013

A busy day on Squawstruck.

On the diving board 100' west of top of pitch 8

Tristan and Thomas on pitch 16, taken from the trail (with a bit more zoom than the last photo).

Pitch 22- the final pitch

The very sustained 5.10 pitch 12.

The exposure is great throughout the whole route.

Just after the tough steep finger crack start to 13. One of the cruxes of the whole route is just above him.

Bryce having fun on Squawstruck

Christian Burrell coiling the rope on top of pitch 11. Sep 2010. Provo Peak (11,068') is in the background.

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