Easy downclimb to gully avoiding the "bunny ears" rap (green circle). Going on the gully side of the tree makes for less rope drag. I put one piece at the top of the gully and ran out the final wide crack to belay from the summit.

All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Washington Pass > Liberty Bell Group > S Early Winters… > Southwest Rib (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Easy downclimb to gully avoiding the "bunny ears" rap (green circle). Going on the gully side of the tree makes for less rope drag. I put one piece at the top of the gully and ran out the final wide crack to belay from the summit.

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The route. Bear-hug pitch visible, as well as the nice white crack first pitch.

A quick paws on the Bear Hug Pitch.

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4.7 from 6 votes

Nick Drake

Sep 6, 2018

“Easy downclimb to gully avoiding the "bunny ears" rap (green circle). Going on the gully side of the tree makes for less rope drag. I put one piece at the top of the gully and ran out the final wide crack to belay from the summit.”

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Nearby Photos

Bear Hug, 4th pitch

The route. Bear-hug pitch visible, as well as the nice white crack first pitch.

Easy downclimb to gully avoiding the "bunny ears" rap (green circle). Going on the gully side of the tree makes for less rope drag. I put one piece at the top of the gully and ran out the final wide crack to belay from the summit.

A quick paws on the Bear Hug Pitch.

Route overlay for the 10b finger crack variation on pitch 3. Traverse right of the tree, then move directly up the vertical finger crack to meet the belay at the base of the nervous nelly pitch.

Start of the aretes (P6), single bolt marked.

Descending the South Arete route

Looking at the last pitch before the rap into the gully as described in Ian's Washington Pass book.

Summer weekends on WA pass moderates be like

Unknown climber on SW Rib as seen from the S Arete.

Looking up the pitch 3 variation - a 10b finger crack. It's good.

The 10b finger crack variation

One of my favorite routes in the pass

Cool shot of Climbers on (what I think was the SW rib)!

pitch 1

Climbers topping out on Aug. 13, 2020. Taken from top of NEWS.

The Bear Hug pitch

Heading up the couloir and left to the start of the left-leaning white crack. There are a few options on the traverse left (high or low).

2nd Pitch, super fun crack

#4 fits great on the right side of the bear hug towards the start.

bear hug.. kinda

Top of the bear hug on pitch 4

Justin high on the route.

Down Climbing the South Arete...

Unknown climber on SW Rib as seen from the S Arete.

Pitch four taken from directly about the 10b finger crack variation

Shayd cali flexing

Looking down mid crack on the 2nd pitch. Very enjoyable

Last bit of the wavy crack (P2) is this wide.

Beargugs cracks.

Part way up 4th pitch. After 3 tries, I finally found the route. At the start, head directly right along the edge then up. This photo shows the fun run out section :)

Nick walking up some 5.6 section.

The pitch 1 we climbed, it seemed to match the Herrington description of the 5.8 pitch with a bulge on the right side of the light rock. DO NOT RECOMMEND.

Downclimb or rappel into the gully. We rappelled from the slung block, however traversing in from the small tree in the left of the photo looked much easier and less faffy in hindsight.

Avoiding the rabbit ears is way easier than some descriptions make it out to be. Just mosey up p7 (what supertopo describes as pitch 8) and follow the rope line in this photo.

WP finishing up the 10b pitch 3 variation

Lower portion of Nervous Nelly, so says the comments. Notice position relative to bear hug cracks above and left.

Getting near the top of the 10b variation on pitch 3. Splitter finger to hands crack.

top of the slab pitch

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