Rap from the chain anchor if you have double ropes. If you have a single 70m, it is probably best to rap from the anchor about 100 feet to climber's left of this (without chains as of July 2018).

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Rap from the chain anchor if you have double ropes. If you have a single 70m, it is probably best to rap from the anchor about 100 feet to climber's left of this (without chains as of July 2018).

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Road Warrior Buttress with the routes Cary Granite, Good Evans, and Road Warrior.

Black Wall from "The Road" in winter.

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Steph Abegg

Jul 27, 2018

“Rap from the chain anchor if you have double ropes. If you have a single 70m, it is probably best to rap from the anchor about 100 feet to climber's left of this (without chains as of July 2018).”

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The Black Wall.<br>
Photo: Bob Horan Collection.

Climber in red, heading up "Good Evans" what we called P3, just below the roof crux P4.Left splitter is "Cary Granite" headed into roof, right splitter is "Road Warrior"

The approach I used when accessing the rappel stations at the top of the Black Wall. First follow a trail that breaks north over the ridge toward the summit of Mt Spalding. Then head down the talus toward a small section of visible cliff.

Sunday morning get-together at the top of the rappel route. There were 9 parties climbing The Black Wall that day, and we all arrived in a mad rush at the top of the rappels at practically the same time (~7:15am).

Standing at the top of the wall with backpacks hung on the 70m rappel route.

Rappel from this anchor. 4 raps with single 70.

After a lot of looking I was able to find my old Rock & Ice drawings, from #32. We called it the Black Wall because it felt like an alpine Black Canyon.

If you have a single 70m, we found that these anchors (leftmost, about 100 feet left of the ones with chains on them as of July 2018) worked best. Leave your own draw, and collect it when you top out.

The view outwards from The Black Wall in August 2012.

The Black Wall in the left front and the Tan Buttresses in the right rear.

Odds are good that you will meet a few of these guys on the hike in.

The Black Wall from the Mt Evans Tollroad. Road Warrior is faintly visible

Hang packs from this anchor. Standing at the top facing out, this is to the left (skier's left) of the rappel route anchors.

We used 50 meter ropes back in the '80s, so I was surprised by the comments that 60 meter ropes barely make it. I'd suggest modifying the original rappel route so it can be with one 70m rope.

June 22, 2009. With binoculars it appeared that all the routes are very wet.

Conditions as of 5/24/2020.

Looking back at the approach from the standard single 70m raps.

This is what happens when you do the Rappel Route with a single 60m rope; certainly not recommended. I wasn't using the American Death Triangle, and I tied knots for my partner as he came down, btw. With rope stretch, you're still ~1-2 meters short.

Road Warrior Buttress with the routes Cary Granite, Good Evans, and Road Warrior.

Rap from the chain anchor if you have double ropes. If you have a single 70m, it is probably best to rap from the anchor about 100 feet to climber's left of this (without chains as of July 2018).

Black Wall from "The Road" in winter.

Looking down from the top of the rappel route.

Black Wall, still seeping in late July.

Black Wall from the start of Hard to Say

Black Wall south standard rappel.

The Black Wall as seen from the Chicago Lakes overlook on Mt. Evans.

Rapping in the single 70m rope way into the Black Wall.

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