Skip this rap station, which you pass on rap #4. You can make it to the next ledge with double 60s. Pulling the rope from this station might be very difficult.

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Skip this rap station, which you pass on rap #4. You can make it to the next ledge with double 60s. Pulling the rope from this station might be very difficult.

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Dawn hits the Saber and Petit.

Frosty belaying at the top of the main buttress.

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Steph Abegg

Jul 19, 2018

“Skip this rap station, which you pass on rap #4. You can make it to the next ledge with double 60s. Pulling the rope from this station might be very difficult.”

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Nearby Photos

The Foil (R) the Sabre (C) and the Petite (L) from the bottom of the talus.

Rap 3: 150'.

Rap 2: 100'.

Rap 1: 110' from the top of the small sub-summit.

Approach gully. The approach ramp starts at the head of the gully. The East Face rappel route dumps you off at head of gully. Leave your approach shoes here!

The approach pitch (mid 5th) to base of routes. This photo was taken at the end of the approach ramp.

Dawn hits the Saber and Petit.

Skip this rap station, which you pass on rap #4. You can make it to the next ledge with double 60s. Pulling the rope from this station might be very difficult.

Frosty belaying at the top of the main buttress.

The Petit and the Sabre in early morning light.

Ran Glennon on the fifth and last rappel.

Ran Glennon on the second rappel. The last pitch of the Kor Route climbs the "nebulous terrain" to the left of the grass.

Petit Grepon, Saber and Foil.

Rap 4: 200' to a ledge. (Important: skip the intermediate rap anchor set back on the ledge with the sling to elongate it; pulling the rope from this would be very difficult, & with double 60s, you can reach the next ledge where there is a better anchor).

The 4th Class approach ramp to get onto south face. Start at the top of the gully.

Rap 5: 180' to the top of the approach gully. (Important: there is a nicer looking rap anchor on a boulder on the ledge, but the rope pull from this would be difficult if not impossible, so it is best to rap from the edge of the ledge.)

The 4th Class approach ramp to get onto south face. Start at the top of the gully.

The East Face rappel route goes down the gully that dumps you off right where you started the approach pitches.

Petit Grepon left and the Saber right