Discovering we might have made a mistake not bringing an axe or crampons - August 2004. But we were able to squeeze into the gap between snow and the grey rock, downclimb a bit and leave two wires on a rap that got us over the bare ice on the slope below.

All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Dragontail Peak > Backbone Ridge (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Discovering we might have made a mistake not bringing an axe or crampons - August 2004. But we were able to squeeze into the gap between snow and the grey rock, downclimb a bit and leave two wires on a rap that got us over the bare ice on the slope below.

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Kim Smith approaching the base of the OW pitch in August 2004.

summit bivy/break spot and the dragon's tail

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Peter Cole

Jul 6, 2018

“Discovering we might have made a mistake not bringing an axe or crampons - August 2004. But we were able to squeeze into the gap between snow and the grey rock, downclimb a bit and leave two wires on a rap that got us over the bare ice on the slope below.”

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Nearby Photos

Shirley following one of the Fin pitches high on Backbone Ridge With Fin Direct. Colchuck Lake below. July 2006.

Lance leading out on the 2nd half of The Fin.

Pre-dawn glow on the approach to the Backbone Arete in August 2004. Very warm night. High 90s down in town.

Rockfall on the ramp before the fin.

You can't beat the views from belays.

ridge

The route

Shirley on the Fin high on Backbone Ridge (July 2006).

Heading down from the summit

Overlay by JPlotz posted on Cascade Climbers. Red is where many parties seem to head up early. The blue line is the route described in Nelson's selected climbs.<br>
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http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/594125/TR_Dragontail_Peak_Backbone_Ri

Approach to the start of the scramble/base of the route - June 18, 2018

View from the belay on top of the fin - final two pitches... stay right and then left up the gully and scramble to the summit

Somewhere on Backbone Ridge.

Looking down the crux corner

View from the top of the 1st pitch and start of the OW. Belay/anchor here or next to the OW and the crack to the left

View after the snow approach and looking up the scramble to the beginning of the first pitch

Topped out on the right of the fin

heading across the fin

we chose to go up the left side of the fin.

The "right leaning ramp" that takes you to the fin has disastrously loose stone. Trent got hit in the jaw with a block and it took 12 hours until he could get to the ER. If it's possible try to come out of the gully-ish part of the ramp to the face.

Kim Smith approaching the base of the OW pitch in August 2004.

Discovering we might have made a mistake not bringing an axe or crampons - August 2004. But we were able to squeeze into the gap between snow and the grey rock, downclimb a bit and leave two wires on a rap that got us over the bare ice on the slope below.

summit bivy/break spot and the dragon's tail

descent snow conditions. We were happy to have light crampons. (no axes)

View from part way up the first pitch - 2 cracks are the first pitch and the fin like piece at the top left of the phone is the off-width start

looking at the OW from the belay. Wide but secure, can sling chockstones inside. good features for feet on the right wall.

Climbing up through the dihedral in the center of the fin, right of the backbone route, possibly the 'underclung' description ... to a loose rock belay station. Fantastic climbing with a commiting hand jam to a delicate belay ledge.

somewhere on route. lichen crack climbing.

approach

first rappel

One of the 5.fun middle pitches, after the ow, before the first simul block.

Approximate route as seen from the approach