First pitch, carry more than 8 alpine draws, I suggest at least 10..fun pitch otherwise

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Sundial > Eleventh Hour (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

First pitch, carry more than 8 alpine draws, I suggest at least 10..fun pitch otherwise

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Kevin on the 2nd pitch

The end of the rappels: my never-cold, crazy partner in his wintry element

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Cody Willever

Jun 14, 2018

“First pitch, carry more than 8 alpine draws, I suggest at least 10..fun pitch otherwise”

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Nearby Photos

looking down on pitch 3 of the eleventh hour.

Summit ridge on the sundial.

11th hour, Last pitch

Great fall colors!

Pitch 4 on Eleventh Hour.

Mike Kaserman took me up the route given in the photo. Thanks again, Mike!

Pitch 4

Sundial july 2012. Trip Report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/08/utah-sundial-peak-eleventh-hour-59.html

Shari Richins having a great time at age 68 while cruising up the almost vertical face of P4 of Eleventh Hour on 09-04-17.

Rox cruising up to the 4th belay after the sweet finger crack

Eleventh Hour. Approximate belay locations in gray, descent (rappels) in yellow.

2nd pitch: After getting to the bolted anchors finishing the first pitch, you'll walk about 30 feet to the right side to this area to create your our own anchor and begin the 2nd pitch here.

You can see the fourth lake from the top.

Rachel stoked to be on the summit of the Sundial. Dromedary Peak is in the far background

Just a nice photo of what you are about to ascend;)

Yeah there really was a moose in the meadow.. My wife and I were soooo happy were made the hike up to do this climb..

Strength in number.<br>
Top of P1, The Eleventh Hour.

Boissal is looking smooth on the 3rd pitch of Eleventh hour.

Crux dihedral pro. Just go for it!

FWIW, here's a variation (in red) that I did way back when I had poor beta and got lost. The middle pitches were generally cleaner than some of the "standard route" middle pitch photos here appear, at least in terms of objective hazard. Gear was sparse, but I think the climbing stayed at 5.8 or less.

Sundial July 2012. Trip Report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/08/utah-sundial-peak-eleventh-hour-59.html

3rd pitch variation. From the nice belay ledge went left up the diagonal crack and over the over hang for a stout 9+ variation.

Rappel stations are seen in top right of view. Live trees are easy to rap off of. Can be done with only 2 rap stations if using a 70 m rope; be prepared to leave behind a sling/biner. Scree and boulder fields to descend.

The descent toward Lake Blanche. Hard to believe SLC is just over yonder.

Looking down the 3rd or last pitch July 2016

Kablam!

Eleventh Hour, 2nd pitch.

At the start. Just left of the main arête.

December 2011 snow on Eleventh Hour. Trip report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/01/sundial-peak-11th-hour.html

Mariann having fun on pitch 2 of Eleventh Hour

You couldn't ask for better scenery

Topping out

Shivers (Lucas Johnson) on a comfy hanging belay

Leading through the crux. It was exactly as described on MP: slab moves with holds on the right, ending with a long reach. An exciting section of climbing.

Watch your step

Not the best photo but in the right corner you can see a moose.. !

Looking up P1

Having fun on Pitch 1 of Eleventh Hour

Looking up P2.

Mariann having fun on the last pitch of Eleventh Hour

Scrambling up the last few feet to the summit. This route is classic because the feature and views are so awesome!

If done as 3 pitches, this would be the start of the 2nd pitch. Climb to top of slab and make way to right ledge (about 5' by 7'); not my favorite belay station, but it works if you want to finish in 3 pitches.

Kevin on the 2nd pitch

First pitch, carry more than 8 alpine draws, I suggest at least 10..fun pitch otherwise

The end of the rappels: my never-cold, crazy partner in his wintry element

topping out on Eleventh Hour

One of the ways to do pitch 4/5.

Second pitch.

Topping out a pitch... not sure which one<br>
<br>
June 2013

Neat shadow from sundial mid-route

From spring of 2013

In This Photo

Cody Willever

Trenton, NJ

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