Daniel, feeling psyched on the exposure of the Acrophobes. You can see the rest of the route in the distance.

All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The Sheriff's B… > Angel's Crest (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Daniel, feeling psyched on the exposure of the Acrophobes. You can see the rest of the route in the distance.

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Dan leading the 5.10b offwidth. He used a BD #6 for the first 1/3, then a VG 9 for the 2/3. Sort of ran it out until closer to the top where he could place a nut and a BD 0.5.<br>
I tried this on top-rope and felt like it was impossible. Master the heel-toe cam and you should be good.

Leading the Angel Crack

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Ilana Newman

Feb 28, 2018

“Daniel, feeling psyched on the exposure of the Acrophobes. You can see the rest of the route in the distance.”

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The splitter 5.10b offwidth variation to pitch 7. Isn't it beautiful? I'm a sucker for offwidths... Too bad the #5 I lugged up there wouldn't do anything for me.

After the Acrophobes.

Dan leading the 5.10b offwidth. He used a BD #6 for the first 1/3, then a VG 9 for the 2/3. Sort of ran it out until closer to the top where he could place a nut and a BD 0.5.<br>
I tried this on top-rope and felt like it was impossible. Master the heel-toe cam and you should be good.

Daniel, feeling psyched on the exposure of the Acrophobes. You can see the rest of the route in the distance.

Leading the Angel Crack

Pitch 8, 5.9 crack.

Pitch 12.

Flex starting up the Angel Crack (pitch 2) photo by Jeff Kennedy

A stitched together panoramic of the north walls of the Chief taken from the loop trail in the Smoke Bluffs just above the far right side of Ronin's Corner.<br>
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Angel's Crest runs up the edge visible in the middle of the image, just left of the Sheriff's Badge.

Nearing the end of an awesome pitch

Looking down the North Gully of the Chief. The Acrophobe towers are visible in the lower middle of the shot. The finishing pitches are just around the corner of the buttress on the right. The building in the upper middle with the brown roof is the hospital. The Smoke Bluffs are just out of sight at the top of the image.

P2: The Angel Crack

Looking up at the headwall from below the Acrophobes

Cool light on the "sting in the tail" (P12/13)

The second to last pitch is stellar. I was blown out from leading the first five pitches of borderline linking into angels and gave this lead to my partner. That was a mistake.

Climbing up the last 5.10a pitch. The Acrophobe's Traverse can be seen in the top right.

Conrad Gmoser atop the Acrophobes', at the belay

Pitch 11 variation (10a).

the tree start is a must do!

Top of the Angel's Crack pitch

Climbing up the fist crack on pitch 10, and loving it. Look at the view!

Flex belaying on one of the aptly named Acrophobe Towers. photo by Jeff Kennedy

Flex finishing off the last few moves of Angel's Crest. photo by Jeff Kennedy

The totem along the forest scramble below the Acrophobes

The Acrophobes pitch

The Acrophobes (Pitch 9) of Angel's Crest

Pitch 8 offwidth variation (10a).