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All Locations > New York > Gunks > Near Trapps > a. Beginning of… > Disney Point (5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b)
Photo: Christian van Pak
ID 114112411 ·
In the middle of the hand traverse. The blue line to the right is a party on P2 of Disneyland.
A tight shot of the cam while he was hanging on it. I've seen shakier placements, but never a shakier placement that actually held a fall. After lowering and traversing back to the belay, Jeff gave the rope a flick and the cam popped out and slid down the rope into his hand. No cleaning necessary. Very efficient of him.
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Daniel Affsprung
Feb 25, 2018
“Photo: Christian van Pak”  

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Photo: Christian van Pak
A tight shot of the cam while he was hanging on it. I've seen shakier placements, but never a shakier placement that actually held a fall. After lowering and traversing back to the belay, Jeff gave the rope a flick and the cam popped out and slid down the rope into his hand. No cleaning necessary. Very efficient of him.
This is how it looked while he was hanging on it. He had other gear nearby, so it probably would not have been a disaster if it had popped out.
But he clipped it anyway. In the past, he slung the point instead of using a cam, but after watching the sling lift off the point in the middle of the crux, I suggested using a cam instead. (Don't think I mentioned a particular size. Oops.)
Now trying to the right of the point. Still not fitting. If it had been happening to me, I would have seen this development as an excellent excuse to reverse a few moves to the last good cam and say "take."
The happy team admiring his handiwork. The camalot is clipped to Tricia's harness.
Jeff Arliss chalking up for the crux.
Beginning the hand traverse. He's smiling now...
Somehow, the #1 holds. I'm holding my breath waiting for a delayed pop, but it doesn't come.
Not today. He prepares to let go. We've discussed the crappy #1 placement, but he doesn't have a choice now.
Good and pumped by now, he considers the sloper above. It's not visible while hanging from the point, but he knows where it is from previous experience. He also knows why they call it a sloper...
Trying to jam a #1 camalot in to the left of point.