A photo I took of Earl Wiggins minutes before he made the first free solo ascent of the Russian Arete. We shared a bite to eat and had a few chuckles, then he took off. He beat me to the top! Circa 1975. <br> <br> Photo: Larry Hazlett.

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All Locations > Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of… > North Rim Routes > Aretes > Russian Arete (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)

A photo I took of Earl Wiggins minutes before he made the first free solo ascent of the Russian Arete. We shared a bite to eat and had a few chuckles, then he took off. He beat me to the top! Circa 1975.
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Photo: Larry Hazlett.

ID 114110955 ·

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Annotated route.

Russian Arete. Bailing off of this in the rain is not fun.

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Larry Hazlett

Feb 24, 2018

“A photo I took of Earl Wiggins minutes before he made the first free solo ascent of the Russian Arete. We shared a bite to eat and had a few chuckles, then he took off. He beat me to the top! Circa 1975.

Photo: Larry Hazlett.”

1 Comment

Shadrock
Here and there.

Shadrock Here and there.

Classic piece of history. Thanks for posting. Aug 22, 2018

Nearby Photos

This is a beautiful place to climb! Looking up canyon from midway up the route.

Rock vs. Face in "The Black". Photo by Erik Wellborn.

Erik Wellborn taking in the view up on the Russian Arete, climbed on April 29th 08. (pitch 2/3) Photo taken by Trask Bradbury.

Maybe too much info for an adventurous place like the Black. But this is how we approached and climbed the Russian Arete. Belays are approximate!

Another river shot.

Ryan Deppen looking upstream from high on the Russian Arete.

Phil Wortman Leading the crux pitch.

Annotated route.

A photo I took of Earl Wiggins minutes before he made the first free solo ascent of the Russian Arete. We shared a bite to eat and had a few chuckles, then he took off. He beat me to the top! Circa 1975.
<br>

<br>
Photo: Larry Hazlett.

Russian Arete. Bailing off of this in the rain is not fun.

Frosty on The Russian Arete. '87.

Wyatt starts up the final wide pitch.

Gibney pulling through the 5.9 rail road tracks.

P7 (easier climbing to the right).

Top of P6.

Dreaded pegmatite.

P3 (we linked this with 4).

Looking up P2.

Gunnison River.

Approach gully downstream from SOB.

SOB Gully.

The arete is left of center and just right of the bright wall on the left of the photo. Despite the "The Russian Arete, you know, like Russian roulette." story, this may have been named, perhaps in part, due to the red rock.

Death cookie near belay 4.

Russian Arete, from the thankfully shady belay at approximately pitch 4-5. I'm just about visible at the top of the chimney near the skyline.

Final pile (class 3-4).

Looking at the Russian from the bottom of the SOB. The route follows the corner-chimney system out near the prow of the buttress.

The Russian Arete starts just about 20-30 feet to the right of the obvious, detached pillar.

Stephen on P1.

Erik leading up the last real pitch of Russian Arete.<br>
This pitch had some wide flared sections but a great one nonetheless. Photo by Trask Bradbury.