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Dan maxing out on George's TR bonus problem.  Frisky Widow is on the right wall, barley visible
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BFord
Dec 2, 2017
Dan maxing out on George's TR bonus problem. Frisky Widow is on the right wall, barley visible  
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
"George's TR Bonus Problem"? Thanks, but I didn't climb this one. Josh did the direct right-hand crack/stemming problem on TR ("Straight Up Widowmaker"), I'm not sure who his partner for that was the first time he did it, though it might have been me. I never got very far on it, it's very thin. We weren't willing to climb up the right corner (or the left) when Josh first led Frisky Widow and upper Widowmaker in late 2010, because there was a car-size chockstone precariously wedged between the 2 walls half-way up. We jumped up and down and pried and unsuccessfully tried to clean it, then it fell out on its own during the winter, opening this TR problem and the full current Widowmaker route for action the following season.

If you guys think it should be bolted to be protectable as a lead climb (I didn't look very hard but didn't see placements as being adequate, and it hasn't been led to my knowledge), you might consider asking Josh his thoughts. I'm indifferent on this one, and might even try to lead it if you bolt it. Speaking only for myself: in general I'm unconcerned if people add bolts or anchors to any of the climbs I did at Capulin, if it makes some sense and is done with a standard level of respect for trad/wilderness ethics, you have my full blessing. I was never really a "route setter", just another chuffer goofing off on cracks. Dec 4, 2017
BFord  
Ha, sorry I thought I saw your name on it, maybe I made that up. I guess it could be leadable with a couple bolts down low before the crack opens up enough to start putting small gear in. It would be a wild lead, though - I wouldn't want to fall from that position. Maybe a master of stemming could do it without the full body bridge...(my core and shoulders were sore for like 3 days from TR-ing it)... Jan 17, 2018

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Dan maxing out on George's TR bonus problem.  Frisky Widow is on the right wall, barley visible