At the start. Just left of the main arête.

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Big Cottonwood… > Sundial > Eleventh Hour (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

At the start. Just left of the main arête.

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The end of the rappels: my never-cold, crazy partner in his wintry element

The descent toward Lake Blanche. Hard to believe SLC is just over yonder.

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SRatch

Oct 8, 2017

“At the start. Just left of the main arête.”

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Nearby Photos

looking down on pitch 3 of the eleventh hour.

Summit ridge on the sundial.

Pitch 4 on Eleventh Hour.

Great fall colors!

Pitch 4

Sundial july 2012. Trip Report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/08/utah-sundial-peak-eleventh-hour-59.html

11th hour, Last pitch

Rox cruising up to the 4th belay after the sweet finger crack

Mike Kaserman took me up the route given in the photo. Thanks again, Mike!

Rachel stoked to be on the summit of the Sundial. Dromedary Peak is in the far background

Strength in number.<br>
Top of P1, The Eleventh Hour.

Eleventh Hour. Approximate belay locations in gray, descent (rappels) in yellow.

Crux dihedral pro. Just go for it!

Boissal is looking smooth on the 3rd pitch of Eleventh hour.

Yeah there really was a moose in the meadow.. My wife and I were soooo happy were made the hike up to do this climb..

December 2011 snow on Eleventh Hour. Trip report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/01/sundial-peak-11th-hour.html

From spring of 2013

Second pitch.

Sundial July 2012. Trip Report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2012/08/utah-sundial-peak-eleventh-hour-59.html

My Wife having fun on the last pitch of Eleventh Hour

If done as 3 pitches, this would be the start of the 2nd pitch. Climb to top of slab and make way to right ledge (about 5' by 7'); not my favorite belay station, but it works if you want to finish in 3 pitches.

Having fun on Pitch 1 of Eleventh Hour

FWIW, here's a variation (in red) that I did way back when I had poor beta and got lost. The middle pitches were generally cleaner than some of the "standard route" middle pitch photos here appear, at least in terms of objective hazard. Gear was sparse, but I think the climbing stayed at 5.8 or less.

Topping out

Shivers (Lucas Johnson) on a comfy hanging belay

Looking up P1

You couldn't ask for better scenery

topping out on Eleventh Hour

Scrambling up the last few feet to the summit. This route is classic because the feature and views are so awesome!

Eleventh Hour, 2nd pitch.

Looking up P2.

Leading through the crux. It was exactly as described on MP: slab moves with holds on the right, ending with a long reach. An exciting section of climbing.

3rd pitch variation. From the nice belay ledge went left up the diagonal crack and over the over hang for a stout 9+ variation.

Watch your step

Looking down the 3rd or last pitch July 2016

Kablam!

Not the best photo but in the right corner you can see a moose.. !

Topping out a pitch... not sure which one<br>
<br>
June 2013

My wife having fun on pitch 2 of Eleventh Hour

The end of the rappels: my never-cold, crazy partner in his wintry element

At the start. Just left of the main arête.

The descent toward Lake Blanche. Hard to believe SLC is just over yonder.

Rappel stations are seen in top right of view. Live trees are easy to rap off of. Can be done with only 2 rap stations if using a 70 m rope; be prepared to leave behind a sling/biner. Scree and boulder fields to descend.

One of the ways to do pitch 4/5.