Before Shipton's Notch - some simuling

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All Locations > International > Africa > Kenya > Mt Kenya > North Face Standard Route (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Before Shipton's Notch - some simuling

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Ever upwards- lots more to go

A rappel where you can't see the bottom

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Mark Schroeder

Oct 6, 2017

“Before Shipton's Notch - some simuling”

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Summit party! Only ones up here

And she was always with me!

Shipton's Notch - spot the climber!
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Orographic uplift - when the air releases moisture as it rises. Notice it on the left side.

Shiver belay

Shipton's Notch

Run back to camp for cheese/chocolate/cold rice

Putting on approach shoes for the extensive gully above the bivuoac amphitheater. Note Firman's Tower is marked

En-route to Kami Hut, (which isn't a hut at all, more like an area) where our Climber's camp was made. The line marks the approach towards the base of route. The X is the imposing Krapf Rognon- a key landmark.

The Amphitheater - more scrambling. A lot of the climb is exposed scrambling so solo when it's safe, and simul whenever possible since it's a big climb.

Alpine start

A great loop of the park's northern side (although more challenging) is hiking in on the Sirimon and returning via Liki North

Our 'Mystery ridge'. Shivers will know...

Our friends and Logistical Support! (Kirithu and Walia!) Go to www.mohakinclimbers.com or call +254 733 340 849 and tell them Jason sent you! Ask for Mohammed or Sammy

Evaluating a guide with a jacked up knee

Knife edge traverse

A humbling, awe-inspiring sight to behold...

I will never forget our excitement of being so close!

Looking over Topos

Camp life- resting and preparing at Shipton's Camp

This is mountain luxury

A constant camp companion and fauna of the Kenyan Wilderness- a Hyrax--the African equivalent of the Marmot

A beautiful flora of Mt. Kenya National Park, the ubiquitous Lobelia is a most unique tree/shrub

In the rain forests en-route to Old Moses camp, on the Sirimon Route.

Incredible sighting before camping out for the night (on the Sirimon route)

The Topo

The Kami Hut area and our final camp before our climb

Shipton's Camp (aka Base Camp) and the last amenities that you'll have before setting out

My climbing partner and best friend- Lucas Johnson. As you can see by the pack, we chose the entirely self-sufficient "No porter/no guide" path. Ultimately much more gratifying.

Collecting firewood in the lobelia forest

Can you believe this is equitorial Africa in summer!? Two pitches from the summit of Nelion.

Cairns mark this area clearly

Such a trail gangsta

The loose, long and arduous scree approach. We took turns swapping the rack

Landmark orientation from the North Side

The altitude made my partner see double at times. Still a good shot of the approach gully though

Be sure to take a print off of something like this as well

The start of the North Face Standard Route marked by the large Cross-in-circle

On the approach- just a little further to go (actually a lot)

Pitch One (of 20+ pitches)

Eric Shipton CBE (of Shipton's Camp). I pay homage to him for being the early pioneer of Mt. Kenya! Thank you Commander Shipton

On route...

Gully after the first pitch. We soloed most after the first pitch, and simul climbed whenever we thought it was steeper.

Having a cup of chai at Bivouac site #1

James on lead

Unbelievable views

Climbing up Firmin's Tower

Some of the easier terrain of the climb

Little bit of ice on Firmins

Ever upwards- lots more to go

Before Shipton's Notch - some simuling

A rappel where you can't see the bottom

One breath at a time. That's the summit! Snow is starting! gogogogo

Wet rocks on the amphitheater mean a bit more rapping instead of downclimbing

At the base of the headwall and upper pitches, which become more difficult and exposed at times

Old Moses- Camp 1 on the Sirimon Route

Rapping

The summit! Oh the joy

Gnar conditions

On the top of Kenya