Before Shipton's Notch - some simuling

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Before Shipton's Notch - some simuling

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A rappel where you can't see the bottom

Wet rocks on the amphitheater mean a bit more rapping instead of downclimbing

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Mark Schroeder

Oct 6, 2017

“Before Shipton's Notch - some simuling”

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Shipton's Notch - spot the climber!
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Orographic uplift - when the air releases moisture as it rises. Notice it on the left side.

Summit party! Only ones up here

Shipton's Notch

Shiver belay

And she was always with me!

Run back to camp for cheese/chocolate/cold rice

Putting on approach shoes for the extensive gully above the bivuoac amphitheater. Note Firman's Tower is marked

En-route to Kami Hut, (which isn't a hut at all, more like an area) where our Climber's camp was made. The line marks the approach towards the base of route. The X is the imposing Krapf Rognon- a key landmark.

Our 'Mystery ridge'. Shivers will know...

Our friends and Logistical Support! (Kirithu and Walia!) Go to www.mohakinclimbers.com or call +254 733 340 849 and tell them Jason sent you! Ask for Mohammed or Sammy

The Topo

In the rain forests en-route to Old Moses camp, on the Sirimon Route.

Old Moses- Camp 1 on the Sirimon Route

Knife edge traverse

A beautiful flora of Mt. Kenya National Park, the ubiquitous Lobelia is a most unique tree/shrub

Collecting firewood in the lobelia forest

The Kami Hut area and our final camp before our climb

Looking over Topos

Camp life- resting and preparing at Shipton's Camp

This is mountain luxury

A constant camp companion and fauna of the Kenyan Wilderness- a Hyrax--the African equivalent of the Marmot

A great loop of the park's northern side (although more challenging) is hiking in on the Sirimon and returning via Liki North

Cairns mark this area clearly

Evaluating a guide with a jacked up knee

The loose, long and arduous scree approach. We took turns swapping the rack

Incredible sighting before camping out for the night (on the Sirimon route)

The altitude made my partner see double at times. Still a good shot of the approach gully though

My climbing partner and best friend- Lucas Johnson. As you can see by the pack, we chose the entirely self-sufficient "No porter/no guide" path. Ultimately much more gratifying.

The start of the North Face Standard Route marked by the large Cross-in-circle

I will never forget our excitement of being so close!

Pitch One (of 20+ pitches)

Such a trail gangsta

On route...

Landmark orientation from the North Side

Having a cup of chai at Bivouac site #1

Be sure to take a print off of something like this as well

Alpine start

On the approach- just a little further to go (actually a lot)

The Amphitheater - more scrambling. A lot of the climb is exposed scrambling so solo when it's safe, and simul whenever possible since it's a big climb.

Eric Shipton CBE (of Shipton's Camp). I pay homage to him for being the early pioneer of Mt. Kenya! Thank you Commander Shipton

Shipton's Camp (aka Base Camp) and the last amenities that you'll have before setting out

Gully after the first pitch. We soloed most after the first pitch, and simul climbed whenever we thought it was steeper.

Unbelievable views

James on lead

Some of the easier terrain of the climb

Climbing up Firmin's Tower

Ever upwards- lots more to go

Little bit of ice on Firmins

A rappel where you can't see the bottom

Before Shipton's Notch - some simuling

Wet rocks on the amphitheater mean a bit more rapping instead of downclimbing

One breath at a time. That's the summit! Snow is starting! gogogogo

Can you believe this is equitorial Africa in summer!? Two pitches from the summit of Nelion.

At the base of the headwall and upper pitches, which become more difficult and exposed at times

A humbling, awe-inspiring sight to behold...

Rapping

The summit! Oh the joy

Gnar conditions

On the top of Kenya