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All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (w) The Marsupials > Brogan Spire > Southside > Cave Route (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R)
Top of Brogan Spire. <br> <br> Photo by: Jonathon Severdia
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Route-finding for Dummies. Myself, sometimes being route-finding challenged when I'm at a new rock, I threw this map together after I spent an afternoon here to help others. Granted, you miss out on some of the adventure if you take too close a look at this, but hey, here it is if you want a hand. Thought it would be helpful to point out the two options for the second pitch.
Rappelling down the way indicated in the guidebook can be a bit dicey--you wind up traversing along a long ledge that can be extremely windy, as you can see! It's a big ledge, but exposed, and if you happen to get blown off or fall off while rap-walking backwards towards the P2 anchors, you're in for a big swing...
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Grant Garrett
Oct 3, 2017
“Top of Brogan Spire.

Photo by: Jonathon Severdia”  

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Route-finding for Dummies. Myself, sometimes being route-finding challenged when I'm at a new rock, I threw this map together after I spent an afternoon here to help others. Granted, you miss out on some of the adventure if you take too close a look at this, but hey, here it is if you want a hand. Thought it would be helpful to point out the two options for the second pitch.
Top of Brogan Spire. <br> <br> Photo by: Jonathon Severdia
Rappelling down the way indicated in the guidebook can be a bit dicey--you wind up traversing along a long ledge that can be extremely windy, as you can see! It's a big ledge, but exposed, and if you happen to get blown off or fall off while rap-walking backwards towards the P2 anchors, you're in for a big swing...
The "cave" on the Cave Route.
Matt starting up the steep, but juggy, 5.6 first pitch of the Cave Route. This has 3 bolts. Deep, sandy jugs take you 30 feet up the start to the flat platform before the cave.
Brogan Spire viewed from the top of 'Living Blindly', May 5th 2018
P2 on bolts to climbers left of the dirty/sandy corner. Use slings unless you like rope drag.
Red is pitch #1 route to The Cave...The green "X" is where I remember the anchors were at the top of pitch #1
Carrie rapping from the summit of Brogan Spire with Mark waiting at the optional 2nd pitch belay (anchor requires gear). Further below a climber is exiting the western opening of the cave while another group of climbers are near the first pitch anchors (2 bolts).
Carrie following the bolted face pitch (#2) with Mark waiting his turn just outside of the western opening of the cave.
Jon following up the end of the 5.4 - 5.5-ish loose & run-out, but fun, corner groove for pitch 2 of the Cave Route. Photo take from belay bolt anchors on the shoulder - a nice, airy belay ledge.
Big Wave Dave following the final moves that finish at the summit of Brogan Spire. (The "cave" is the small dark area below Big Wave. The original 2nd pitch gully can be seen as the left-facing corner in the shade behind Big Wave.)

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Grant Garrett
Portland, OR
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