Early season climb up Bugaboo!

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia-Shushwap > Bugaboos > Bugaboo Spire > Kain Route (S Ridge) (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Early season climb up Bugaboo!

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Kain Route Map<br>
contour interval : 100 feet<br>
<br>
Green - Kain Route<br>
Blue - Northeast Ridge

Upper section of Kain route showing the Gendarme (led in hob-nailed boots in 1916!) and the approximate route to summit

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Tyler S

Sep 14, 2017

“Early season climb up Bugaboo!”

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Nearby Photos

Route Overlay Descent from Bugaboo Spire.

Picture of the Kain Route taken from Pigeon Spire.

Conrad Kain, alpine superhero.

From the base of the final belayed pitch

Brennen on the summit

Approaching the gendarme on the Kain route. Climber is in the lower right of the photo. The summit of Bugaboo is in the upper left of the photo.

More vistas from the scrambling part of the route (taken on descent) Tony Tennessee and Fred Batliner.

Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire<br>
Photo by MP conributor Kevin Craig<br>
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White dots - Kain Route (south ridge)<br>
Red dots - Rappel at Great Gendarme<br>
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In the distance, Vowell Glacier and Mount Conrad (Kain).

View from the South Summit

Climbers on the upper Kain Route.

Crux pitch on the Kain route,

The hordes waiting to rappel (left) and climb (right) The Gendarme - looking down from near summit.

Applebee Camp Info

Looking over at Snowpatch Spire from the summit of Bugaboo Spire.

Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col. Small crevasses and bergshrunds. Generally climbed unroped.

A look at the easy climbing to the south summit.

Paul Hudak at the crux

Start of the roped climbing

Vista on the lower part of the route.

The 4th class intermediate ridge.

Wearing the latest in safety headgear, M-J Cross cleans the last piece of pro on the Gendarme pitch (1982)

Applebee Camp

The scrambling up to the roped pitches.

The added hike from the Kain hut to Applebee

descending the snow patch bugaboo col, there are bolted anchors (4) that get you down the steep section. I used a 60 m rope without an issue. here is one station:

descending the snow patch bugaboo col, there are bolted anchors (4) that get you down the steep section. I used a 60 m rope without an issue. I have circled two anchors

Crossing the Gendarme of the Kain Route

Kain Route Map<br>
contour interval : 100 feet<br>
<br>
Green - Kain Route<br>
Blue - Northeast Ridge

Early season climb up Bugaboo!

Upper section of Kain route showing the Gendarme (led in hob-nailed boots in 1916!) and the approximate route to summit

Upper Route Beta

Route Overview

Some of the lower roped pitches

David deciding the Knife Edge on the Kain Route.

A key, inobvious rap station on the descent.

Easy scrambling low on the Kain Route. July 1974. Bob Dodds & Wendy Weiss.

On the descent, traversing the pitch below the gendarme.

Looking down from just below the Gendarme pitch.

Bolted belay at the base of the Gendarme pitch.

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