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All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Prusik Peak > Beckey-Davis (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)
Traverse at top of Pitch 1 of Burgner-Stanley to the top of the chimney on Beckey-Davis. This avoids having to climb the sparsely-protected chimney of the Beckey-Davis Pitch 1. (Based on other photos I've seen, I am not absolutely positive we stopped/traversed into the "treed ledge" at the top of the chimney noted in the route description, but there was a tree there and a ledge there and it was at the top of the chimney so it seemed correct. Perhaps could come in higher or lower too, not sure.)
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Somewhere near the end of Pitch 5 or start of Pitch 6. There is a nice belay ledge at the tree above (which would make Pitch 5 long and Pitch 6 short).
Pitch 1 of Burgner Stanley is the wide hand crack on the left. Pitch 1 of Beckey-Davis is the chimney on the right. Can climb Pitch 1 of Burgner-Stanley and intersect Beckey-Davis route above this.
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Steph Abegg
Sep 11, 2017
“Traverse at top of Pitch 1 of Burgner-Stanley to the top of the chimney on Beckey-Davis. This avoids having to climb the sparsely-protected chimney of the Beckey-Davis Pitch 1. (Based on other photos I've seen, I am not absolutely positive we stopped/traversed into the "treed ledge" at the top of the chimney noted in the route description, but there was a tree there and a ledge there and it was at the top of the chimney so it seemed correct. Perhaps could come in higher or lower too, not sure.)”  

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Nearby Photos

Route Overlays Prusik Peak.
The .10a splitter option to finish off the route. (Pitch 7) It's not every route where you get to pull a 5.10 move and pop out right onto the summit.
Higher up on Pitch 5.
Nearing the top of Pitch 6.
Somewhere near the end of Pitch 5 or start of Pitch 6. There is a nice belay ledge at the tree above (which would make Pitch 5 long and Pitch 6 short).
Traverse at top of Pitch 1 of Burgner-Stanley to the top of the chimney on Beckey-Davis. This avoids having to climb the sparsely-protected chimney of the Beckey-Davis Pitch 1. (Based on other photos I've seen, I am not absolutely positive we stopped/traversed into the "treed ledge" at the top of the chimney noted in the route description, but there was a tree there and a ledge there and it was at the top of the chimney so it seemed correct. Perhaps could come in higher or lower too, not sure.)
Pitch 1 of Burgner Stanley is the wide hand crack on the left. Pitch 1 of Beckey-Davis is the chimney on the right. Can climb Pitch 1 of Burgner-Stanley and intersect Beckey-Davis route above this.
Nearing the notch at the top of Pitch 6.
I suspect this is the 10+ crack (60-70' into P2) that Erroneous & co climbed. We went right at this point instead of climbing the crack.
Pitch 5 starts in a shallow dihedral with a crack on the left. This may or may not be it. It seemed a bit hard for 5.9 but it worked and was in line with the finish of the route high above.
Pitch 4 (traverse across Snafflehound Ledge).
Approaching Snafflefold Ledge (officially the end of P3, though it takes most parties 4-5 pitches to get here). We approached from directly below, climbing a short dirty chimney.
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