In 1972 nuts had not yet completely replaced pitons and were still looked on with suspicion by some. I climbed this route swinging leads with one such unbeliever, and running out of rope, the right size piton, and nerve all at the same time, he irretrievably beat my brand new hex into the crack with his hammer for a belay anchor. <br> As of last month, it’s still there about four pitches up.

All Locations > California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (b) N Face > Northeast Face West (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

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Me (Hamik Mukelyan) on NE Face W, Tahquitz, February 2010. Did it three times that year (with Alex Falk, Pratyush Tiwary, Kedron Silsbee, Jordan Ramey, and Bill Sherman)

really fun climbing.

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4.8 from 11 votes

The Gray Tradster

Sep 8, 2017

“In 1972 nuts had not yet completely replaced pitons and were still looked on with suspicion by some. I climbed this route swinging leads with one such unbeliever, and running out of rope, the right size piton, and nerve all at the same time, he irretrievably beat my brand new hex into the crack with his hammer for a belay anchor.
As of last month, it’s still there about four pitches up.”

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Nearby Photos

Me (Hamik Mukelyan) on NE Face W, Tahquitz, February 2010. Did it three times that year (with Alex Falk, Pratyush Tiwary, Kedron Silsbee, Jordan Ramey, and Bill Sherman)

really fun climbing.

normal conditions... sort of...

Following the proper route 1 pitch from the top.

The whole lower section of NE Face is visible. Penelope Smrz is climbing in October 2008.

A view from the top of the first belay ledge (approx 60 feet from the start). This belay is large and comfy with a tree and some slings.

Penelope Smrz starting the first pitch, NE Face West, October 2008

Miguel Carmona on the NE Face in 1989. These are great ice conditions on Tahquitz.

If I recall Vogel's book describes finding it as "just left of the obvious tree" - gotta love that. Well, here's what the obvious corner looks like from under the obvious tree. Route is pretty straightforward - or I should say WAS pretty straightforward (when I was younger and lighter!).

Tahquitz NE Face West in winter. Alois climbing in 1985. Photo with permission of Miguel Carmona.

Agina Sedler on the first pitch. 9-17-11

The arrows point to the steep exit pitch of the NE Face . The moves are a bit harder here over an old pin. Alois climbing in 2008. "Photo with permission of my wife",

Looking down NE Face W, Tahquitz, in ice conditions

2010 was another great year for ice on Tahquitz. Yours truly on NE Face in early March.

Penelope following the second pitch of the NE Face West in 2004..

start of Northeast Face West - on a hot morning

My wife Penelope on the exit pitch of NE Face on March 12, 2010.

Agina Sedler on the first pitch. 9-17-11

Nathan Fitzhugh on pitch 2. 9-17-11<br>
Good pro which was nice since it was a bit wet under the small roof.

Nathan Fitzhugh on pitch 2. 9-17-11

A view looking down from the top of the 3rd pitch.

Agina Sedler on the first pitch. 9-17-11

Joe starts up the stellar third pitch.

A quick self snap while leading the 2nd pitch.

Looking up at the first pitch. Chad Parker and Nick Krawiek.

Chad Parker at the second belay of Northeast Face West.

Nick Krawiek summitting Northeast Face West. Five pitches. This is also the summit for Northeast Face East. They meet up after the fourth pitch.

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