Performing the mantel move with correct Beta

All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > C. El Cap Picni… > 5. Manure Pile… > Nutcracker Suite (aka… (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Performing the mantel move with correct Beta

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The final slab after the mantel on the last pitch.

Mike topped out of The Nutcracker Suite

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John Clark

Aug 31, 2017

“Performing the mantel move with correct Beta”

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Performing the mantel move with correct Beta

Mike topped out of The Nutcracker Suite

Manure Summit!

Sunset in the valley seen from the top of Nutcracker.

"Nutcracker"-1st pitch.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

The right facing dihedral (yellow) is NOT the regular pitch 1! The regular p1 is the LEFT facing dihedral (red). Lots of bailing gear on the left variation. Don't make same mistake I did. The 5.9 finger crack variation starts ~25' to the right of the red.

Best to extend your anchor and belay near the edge to see/hear your second

Toping out after I led all pitches. I think I've successfully converted this boulderer on her first trad climb.

Stephanie on the first moves of pitch 3.

Pitch 4

Mike and Tristan from Wyoming at the crux. May 2014

Photo from third pitch

Start of pitch 3.

Looking up to pitch 5 - including the 'Mantel' move.

Nutcracker<br>

Damage from a whip on Pitch 1

Pitch 1, 5.8

Paul Petersen leading the uber-classic first pitch (5.8) of the Nutcracker. 1980.

Top of pitch 3. The only semi-hanging belay on the route. All the other belays are great.

Top out photo

YEEEEAHHHH!! Topping out Nutcracker.

Looking down from the slinghorn on the top of P3 at the beautiful 5.7 polished lieback section!!

Having fun on the Nutcracker

Jeff going over the bulge on pitch 4

Our instructor beginning pitch 3

Saw several parties on Nutcracker while walking off Michaels Ledge

Looking down upon the route while coming over the mantle

Josh figuring out the overhang at the start of pitch 4.

There's a step right off of the belay ledge at the end of p2, get your right foot on that and slowly stretch out until you can reach the handcrack for p3.

me leading another fun pitch on this classic route...

Alanna finishing up Nutcracker.

Final portion of the last pitch.

Starting out on pitch 3. Beautiful hand jams!

My dad on nutcracker

Just after the 5.8 bulge on the 4th pitch.

The alternate 2nd pitch after the 5.9 direct start.

The final slab after the mantel on the last pitch.