Traversing under the black towers.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Banff NP > Valley of the T… > Mt Temple > E Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow PG13)

Traversing under the black towers.

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Scrambling up the black gully system.

Traversing under the black towers. This was the sketchiest part of the day.

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Sarah Meiser

Aug 31, 2017

“Traversing under the black towers.”

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The final snow crest on the East Ridge. This is where Greenwood-Jones intersects the East Ridge route.

from Brian Webster (Canadian Mountain Guide): When<br>
traversing left on the large snow slope (after topping out on the Big Step)<br>
you will encounter an obvious rock pinnacle that originates from the snow<br>
slope and is about 10 metres high. (If you are traversing the snow slope<br>
near the top, close to the moat, you would bump into this pinnacle.) The<br>
exit gully is just on the other side of the pinnacle, but most climbers<br>
scramble up between the pinnacle and the main wall (you can create a belay<br>
by slinging the top of the pinnacle). From here climb loose rock up and<br>
left so as to merge into the exit gully higher up. It is about 5 pitches of<br>
loose 5.4ish rock and/or snow and ice climbing to reach the summit ridge.

Beginning the corniced upper ridge.

Mike beginning the first lead up the Big Step.

The avalanche path where the adventure begins, not obvious at night. There's a pullout just before and just after this pin on the other side of the road.

Nearing the summit along the final section of the East Ridge.

Midway along the ridge.

Traversing under the black towers.

Atop the Big Step, looking towards the Black Towers and the upper ridge.

On the ridge in snowy conditions

Top of the east ridge.

Scrambling up the black gully system.

Traversing under the black towers.

Traversing under the black towers. This was the sketchiest part of the day.

Looking back along summit ridge

Janelle beginning up The Big Step with the Valley of the Ten Peaks behind.

Nearing the top of the gully that skirts the Black Towers.

Leading up & around the towers.

Ascending to the next higher ledge, below the Black Towers.

Beginning the traverse under the Black Towers.

Scott checking out the start of the Black Towers, Mt. Temple.

Crevasse crossing on the way to the top, Mt. Temple.

Begining the descent down the SW Ridge. Mt Deltaform in the background.

Nearing the Big Step.

Sunrise from the East Ridge of Mt. Temple

Routefinding a bit below the summit ridge.

Brad climbing up "The Little Step" which goes up to the highest point in this pic. Many folks (us included) get the rope out for the last few moves, which are very steep and committing. There's a fixed pin right at the start of the steep stuff (2011)

The Valley of the Ten Peaks from the base of The Big Step. From L-> R are:<br>
Mt Quadra (Glaciated)<br>
Mt Babel (foreground)<br>
Mt Fay (Galciated)<br>
Mt Little<br>
Mt Bowlen<br>
Peak 4<br>
Mt Perren<br>
Mt Allen<br>
Mt Tuzo.

Approaching the Big Step. The route up the Step begins just left of the sun/shade line.

Endless 3rd & 4th class scrambling below the Big Step.

Loose rock is the crux of this route for sure. I got hit in the leg in the final few meters before topping out the Black Towers and it was unpleasant.

Atop the difficulties of the Big Step.

Nearing the top of the first pitch.

The Bivy Site immediately at the top of the Big Step. Pretty plush looking for it's position!

Mike begins the final pitch to the top of the Big Step.

Approaching the Black Towers.

Third-class scrambling to reach the Big Step.