Pitch 9 climbs through a band of shale. There is not pro on this pitch, but it is fairly easy.

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Pitch 9 climbs through a band of shale. There is not pro on this pitch, but it is fairly easy.

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If you do Pitch 12 above the tunnel, one rappel option is to do a single-rope rap off of this tree back down to the tunnel and reverse the tunnel. With two ropes, there might be another rap anchor to the left that allows you to rap to the belay anchor on the left side of the tunnel and hence bypass having to reverse the tunnel.

Pitch 8.

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Steph Abegg

Aug 29, 2017

“Pitch 9 climbs through a band of shale. There is not pro on this pitch, but it is fairly easy.”

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Photo topo - Ramey 2011<br>
Belay 3 is approximate since there are multiple stations, 3a and 4a are omitted for clarity. From station 2, just simul to 4a or 4 or scramble to the end of the rope and find the closest station as there are several to choose from.

Goat en route, just below the chimney/corner system of Pitch 6.

Me sitting on top the falls, after the tunnel, anchored to a tree.

I revised the topo slightly from the one floating around online in other spots.

If you do Pitch 12 above the tunnel, one rappel option is to do a single-rope rap off of this tree back down to the tunnel and reverse the tunnel. With two ropes, there might be another rap anchor to the left that allows you to rap to the belay anchor on the left side of the tunnel and hence bypass having to reverse the tunnel.

Pitch 9 climbs through a band of shale. There is not pro on this pitch, but it is fairly easy.

Pitch 8.

"Pitch" 3 and "Pitch" 4 are essentially a hike along an exposed trail.

Awesome position of belay spot at top of Pitch 7 (photo taken on rappel). This is a much better viewpoint of the falls than the tourist trail viewpoint below.

After the climb, all smiles

Pitch 1. In this photo, Rob is at the first bolt on the route.

Top of falls.

Walking across the tourist bridge towards Takakkaw Falls

Heading into the cave!

Top of pitch 7, the belay with a close up view of the falls.

Next to rooster tail!

Heading up the last pitch (after the cave) could have gone with just a bolt or 2 - no gear

Entering the cave

Team of 3 at the pitch 3a belay, just before walking the ledge to the chimney, where this picture was shot from.

My partner Brice finishing the pitch below the cave.

Bring a headlamp - it's totally dark in the tunnel.

Light at the end of the tunnel, FINALLY

To get to the source of the falls, climb one more pitch after exiting the tunnel. This involves a short section of 5.6, protected by just one belay bolt at the very bottom of the pitch. We felt it was worth going to the top to see the source of the falls.

Entrance to the tunnel/ cave, at top of pitch 10, that leads to the top of the waterfall.