Start of Pitch 11.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Banff NP > Castle Mountain > Brewer Buttress (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13)

Start of Pitch 11.

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Glenn T. in front of the Castle Mountain hut.

The cairn by the descent gully.

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Steph Abegg

Aug 26, 2017

“Start of Pitch 11.”

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Overview of trails (orange), Brewer Buttress location (blue), and correct descent gully. The "fire lookout" approach is 2.5 hours to the hut. The Rockbound Lake approach is 4-5 hours to the hut and only a good option for Eisenhower Tower.

Pitch 10.

The approach trail once your past the hut is the faint line between the sheer steep cliff above and the crumbly sloping cliff below. Don't look down.

Brewer Buttress climbs the buttress to the left of Eisenhower Tower

Start of the diagonal cut across lower gulley. First identifiable bolt circled.

Plaque marking the start of the Brewer's Buttress route

Pitch 2 (5.5)

Pitch 5 (5.5)

Wide crack on Pitch 11.

The first pitch of the route (this was by far the worst pitch)

Rap 4 (of 4). This rappels past the giant chockstone to the end of the gully.

Rap 2 (of 4). This slung block is to skiers right below Rap 1 and visible from the Rap 1 anchor.

The view of Rockbound Lake from the summit.

Brewer Buttress topo

The right finish (recommended) takes this steep wall (5.6) on pitch 12.

Pitch 9, the crux of the route at 5.7

Although only rated 5.7, the route is very steep with lots of exposure. Great fun! <br>
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This is the view looking down the corner on pitch 7.

Looking up the steep 5.6 corner of pitch 7. Nice pants Glenn :-)

Pitch 6

The correct descent gully.

Rap 1 (of 4). This rap anchor is bolted and on skiers right just as the gully begins to cliff out.

A huge chockstone near the bottom of the descent gully

Rap 3 (of 4). This anchor was on skiers right about 20 feet along edge from ends of rope and difficult to spot. The guidebook beta said to go to skiers left of you have 1 rope but this would have been a sketchy downclimb to a sketchy anchor. Going to skiers right worked for us, and we had a single 60m rope.

Following the eighth pitch.

Pitch 8.

Glenn T. in front of the Castle Mountain hut.

Start of Pitch 11.

The cairn by the descent gully.

Pitch 12 variation, ~5.7 up a fun polished corner system to the top. This is left of the original route finish (5.5-5.6).

Pitches 3 and 4, seen here, are usually combined. Glenn T. is seen at the belay at the top of pitch 2.

Following the sixth pitch.

Me leading the last pitch, the 5.6 variation that links 12 & 13. Probably the steepest pitch on the route.