Gear placement for Vixen. There's a cam way back in that crack to begin. Used TR to place gear then lead like a sport route 2nd time up.
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slim jim
Jul 16, 2017
Gear placement for Vixen. There's a cam way back in that crack to begin. Used TR to place gear then lead like a sport route 2nd time up.
Hamish Malin
Fredericksburg, VA
Hamish Malin   Fredericksburg, VA
FYI on gear placement, as this pic was my lead: This route leads better without bolt to right; I actually didn't clip the blue draw in picture when leading (gear was pre-placed on toprope). Climb took a larger (4.5) cam lower down, but would go easier with an even larger one. The cam in pic is ~3.5, followed by a hex and two tri-cams in pockets off to right. Tri-cam placements are bomber when weighted with some excess gear. IMO using bolt would only add excessive rope drag and risk of chopping rope (see below).

Also be warned, when cleaning gear from top down your rope can be exposed to a very sharp edge on right side of crack ~20ft up; I managed to expose my rope core on this while lowering and cleaning. Be vigilant or have your follower clean from bottom up.

Lead is especially fun w/out bolt to right as you can commit to the squeeze chimney -> offwidth. Probably goes at a higher grade if you fully commit to crack.... cheers ;) Jul 17, 2017

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Gear placement for Vixen. There's a cam way back in that crack to begin. Used TR to place gear then lead like a sport route 2nd time up.