starting up pitch 5

All Locations > Wyoming > Wind River Range > Deep Lake Area > Haystack Mountain > Southern Wall Left (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b)

starting up pitch 5

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This is Ben Doyle leading the seventh pitch, one of the best pitches on the route.

The route ends by traversing this diagonal weakness across the face to the summit ridge.

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lperitz22

Jun 6, 2017

“starting up pitch 5”

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Route Overlay Southern Wall Left

Pitch 6. This is the second crux of the pitch, up a thin crack with mediocre protection. This crux is more mental and tenuous than the first. Nice lead Jeff!

A topo for the Southern Wall Left (IV 5.10c)

Looking down Pitch 5. This pitch climbs the groove feature. There are some thought-provoking sections and tenuous steps first to the left and then back to the right. The climbing is pretty sustained 5.8 with some no-fall moves above gear. I had not really liked the route up until this point, but I thought that the climbing on this pitch (and all pitches above this pitch) was great.

This is Ben Doyle leading the seventh pitch, one of the best pitches on the route.

starting up pitch 5

The route ends by traversing this diagonal weakness across the face to the summit ridge.

Pitch 8. Looking up the dihedral. This was one of my favorite pitches of the route.

The start of Pitch 1, about 100 feet up at an arching, vegetated ledge with red stone above it.

Pitch 7. This pitch climbs a splitter finger crack through the small overhang on the right.

Pitch 5 with the steep stuff looming above!

Looking up at P3. The route more or less follows the left facing corners.

Looking up at P5 from the large belay ledge. The crux 6th pitch bulge is visible near the top of the rock.

The Descent: Ben descending the lower portion of the Grassy Goat Trail. This is the less exposed section.

Ben Doyle following P2. He is on the slab traverse on P2. This variation that I did traversed much lower than the guidebook suggests. Ooops. Oh well.

Pitch 6. In the photo Jeff is at the small bulge that enters the right-facing corner. This is the first crux of the pitch, but is protectable and more of a powerful move than difficult.

A view of climbers on the dihedral (Pitch 8).

The route starts at a high point of the slopes, right of a large-left-leaning gully. The roped climbing starts about 100 feet up at an arching, vegetated ledge with red stone above it (right-center in photo).

The knobby face at the top of Pitch 8. Ascend the knobs to the ceiling, do a hand traverse left at the ceiling, and then traverse left some more to a belay spot.

Traverse right and up from ledge to another ledge (where Jeff is in the photo). This pitch goes more rightward than we had initially thought, so we initially went a bit too high and had to do a slightly more spooky traverse than anticipated. Best to go pretty much horizontally right to below the ledge and then directly up. The route-finding can be devious on the lower pitches of this route. I think this is because the correct way sometimes looks more improbable than it actually is.

his pitch supposedly climbs the flake above Jeff which arches right and then takes a slab traverse into the left-facing corners. The slab traverse looked improbable, so Jeff decided to go up the flake/corner up and left of him in the photo and traverse to the right higher...

The higher option on Pitch 2 involved a undercling to the belay. This was definitely not 5.6 but was good climbing.

The final traverse at the end of Pitch 8.

Pitch 3. This pitch follows the corner system up to a ledge. The corners on the route are slabby corners, which involve trusting foot smears rather than jamming.

Pitch 8. This pitch climbs the groove feature. There are some thought-provoking sections and tenuous steps first to the left and then back to the right. The climbing is pretty sustained 5.8 with some no-fall moves above gear.

The goal of this pitch is to get below the giant open book in upper left-center of the photo. The correct corner to take is the one on the left in this photo. We debated and went right since it looked easy, and ended up traversing left at the top (easy but runnout) to get to the belay. At times, the route-finding can be a bit devious on the lower pitches of this route.

Somewhere high on the route. Beautiful climb! September 2019

This a photo of the route with the top pitch variation. The route on the photo is approximate.