The steepness of the left exit is apparent in this photo. Good thing the knobs were big, because there wasn't any pro except for the lone piton!

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > Sangre de Crist… > Crestones > Ellingwood Ledges (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

The steepness of the left exit is apparent in this photo. Good thing the knobs were big, because there wasn't any pro except for the lone piton!

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Resting before the final push and the crux.

4th class climbing above the Red Tower. The complex final Headwall is visible high above.

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Mark P Thomas

May 17, 2017

“The steepness of the left exit is apparent in this photo. Good thing the knobs were big, because there wasn't any pro except for the lone piton!”

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Ellingwood Arete (aka Ledges) routes.

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Ellingwood Ledges as seen from the summit of Humboldt.

On the summit with clouds circling in.

Here are some ways to start [[105748714]]. I have not done the starts labeled "Direct" and "Most-Ledges".
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The "Full-Ledges" start - after a little up climbing and a little down climbing - passes just above a large slung horn with old rap rope as of July 2016. The old rap rope was knotted off for a two-stranded rap, and it was a little sun-bleached with some sheath damage visible in one strand about 15 feet down from the anchor.
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In July 2017, the rap station was gone.

Don't step on the flowers.

View of Ellingwood Ledges in the morning. The full route is visible. Picture taken from Humboldt's saddle.

Summit view - Sandunes!

Crestone Needle

Mystery of the Head Crack pitch....

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Ellingwood Arete...and me thinking 'I should have been at the base of the climb about an hour ago....'

Interesting chimney exit sequence on the left final pitch(es) variation, which is the gift that keeps on giving.

First hard headwall pitch.

Looking down the 5.7 pitch.

The upper section of Ellingwood Arete. We took the left variation, which our topo called 5.7, and I call B.S., but it was memorable!

Starting up the final (crux) pitch. <br>
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Photo by Dan Perry.

Getting to the trailhead for South Colony Lakes entails 2.6 miles of rough road. We had a Highlander and stopped 1 mile short and walked to the trailhead, only to be humbled by a couple of "lesser" vehicles in the parking lot!

Shiny bolt anchors on the 3 pitch direct start. (We simulclimbed the direct start in one pitch, using a microtraxion as pictured in the photo.)

Options for the final headwall pitch. Option A or B must be the Head Crack pitch. We climbed option C, which seemed to fit the descriptions of other climbers who recommended climbing a steep right-facing dihedral, but the move over the overhang was strenuous, feeling more like 5.9 than 5.7. The cracks to the right were lower angle and appeared easier, but we weren't sure if they ended on a ledge. Option F looked like it was the easiest.

The direct start. 3 pitches of 5.6.

Me on one of the belay ledge immediately after the crux pitch.

Ellingwood Ledges as seen from near the end of the 4WD road.

Grassy ledges start.

A friendly Marmot poses a few feet below the summit of Crestone Needle in the early morning. Humbolt Peak is silhouetted in the background.

Cully just feet below the summit.

Pulling tough moves halfway up instead of walking around the mini-headwall.

SUMMIT!

Fun climbing below the final crux headwall.

Mike Schillaci on the arete, 1990.

Looking up the technical headwall pitches higher up on the route.

Starting up the easy 3rd class at the beginning of the route.

On the final 3rd class pitch, only 100 feet below the summit. This is a very exposed pitch, but the rock is excellent.

Looking up the Ellingwood Ledges from the valley below.

Sunrise on the one of the namesake ledges.

Taken low on the route where the direct and normal starts merge. Above George's head is the "Red Tower" - most parties rope up for the pitch that goes just left of it.

A climber taking a direct variation to the start, with the first piece of pro visible. I placed gear in a similar spot but found the climbing easier and better protected doing the undercling to traverse left.

The Crestone Needle and Peak massif. Photo by Anna Thomas.

Topping out on the crux pitch.

The start of the climb can accessed via the diagonalling ramp through the black cliff.

Escaping the Direct Start after 1 pitch (yes, it is possible ... ).

Carol about halfway up Ellingwood Ledges. August 26, 2000.

The direct start up a 5.6 dihedral.

Marcello leading the 2nd hard pitch, near the crux.

Resting before the final push and the crux.

The steepness of the left exit is apparent in this photo. Good thing the knobs were big, because there wasn't any pro except for the lone piton!

4th class climbing above the Red Tower. The complex final Headwall is visible high above.

Max crawling up the early 3rd class.

Success! Now if we can only get down before dark....

Josh Hobgood following the first hard headwall pitch.

Sunrise looking back toward campsites from the approach to The Needle.

Early on the arête - Photo of Greg & Marcello.

One of the interesting inhabitants of Ellingwood Ledges, taken on a pre-climb day exploring the "Full-Ledges" start (native? invasive?).

The crux pitch.

Jolly Max on the early morning approach.

Looking down at the 5.7 crux.

Charlotte following me up the left exit, which is way harder than the topo's 5.7 claim. This section is overhanging about 5-10 degrees, protected by a single piton after the traverse (a draw is on it in the photo). The wide crack did not take pro - only a chickenwing for rest.

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Rutherc XYZ

Boston, MA