Dave Spies reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the first bolt was added.

All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Boynton Canyon > Nirvana Buttress > Nirvana (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Dave Spies reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the first bolt was added.

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Parking lot view of one person on belay ledge below third pitch and two people on the 'dance floor': scan Nirvana skyline.

Rare glimpse of the Nirvana vortex tunnel from Krakatoa. The tips crack above it is too steep and chossy for me and anyone wants it can go for it.

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4.0 from 1 vote

Derek Field

Feb 10, 2017

“Dave Spies reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the first bolt was added.”

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Nearby Photos

Nirvana topo

07-03-20, with FA permission, Idaliza Sosa and I installed a two-bolt chain anchor at the top of the third pitch. We removed all webbing from the piñon tree previously used as an anchor. With a single 70m rope, you can rap directly to the P1 anchor.

Really cool funnel feature I noticed on the rap down.

Looking across at Nirvana from Mystery Spire.

Me cleaning P1. I thought this pitch was the best part of the climb.

Looking down at Mark from middle of P2.

Location of Nirvana as seen from the turnoff from the main Boynton Canyon trail.

Bean leading the first pitch.<br>
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(Photo: Giselle Fernandez)

Parking lot view of one person on belay ledge below third pitch and two people on the 'dance floor': scan Nirvana skyline.

Dave Spies reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the first bolt was added.

Rare glimpse of the Nirvana vortex tunnel from Krakatoa. The tips crack above it is too steep and chossy for me and anyone wants it can go for it.

Looking out along the limestone ledge at Emma returning from the tunnel.

Angry Rattlesnake (See rattlesnake topo + 4/19/18 comment). BE CAREFUL!!

Rattlesnake Topo (see comment 4/19/18)

Very fun laybacking on the first pitch. (Photo: Giselle Fernandez)

Location of Nirvana as seen from Boynton Canyon trailhead.

Top of the route.

Near the top of P2. Just clip and go. Next time I do this route, I'll leave the rack at the top of P1. The rest of the climb is just clipping bolts. Didn't feel like any supplemental trad gear was needed.

Mark coming up to the belay on P2.

Nate and Alexis walking the limestone ledge. Photo taken from tunnel entrance.

Late afternoon at the third belay. (Photo: Miranda Perrone)

Nate (blue helmet) starting P2 with Alexis (orange shirt) standing in the scoops belay atop P1.

I think I saw at least 7 cliff dwellings in and around us on approach. This one was the easiest to get to but also a bit worn down.

great views from the top.

Miranda leading the first pitch with husband Patrick on belay.

Giselle laybacking the first pitch. Oops, sloppy belay.

Bean styling the second pitch.
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(Photo: Giselle Fernandez)

Drone shot showing the position at the top of the second pitch. (Photo: Joey Taylor)

Mandatory bromance shot.

Thumbs up for the awesome first pitch!

Top of the climb is an awesome place to hang out. We spent at least 30 minutes enjoying the view and watching clouds.

Alexis surfing the endless positive holds on P2.

Nate and Alexis emerging from the tunnel.

Cruising through "rattlesnake alley". Fortunately Mark went first and scared them all away.

Views are hard to beat.

Mark cruising up P1. The crux for me was actually getting off the ground and into "lie-back mode".

Leading the first pitch on an early ascent. Photo: Giselle Fernandez

Patrick emerging from the tunnel.

In This Photo

Dave Spies

Sedona, AZ