Dave Spies reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the first bolt was added.

All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Boynton Canyon > Nirvana Buttress > Nirvana (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Dave Spies reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the first bolt was added.

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Parking lot view of one person on belay ledge below third pitch and two people on the 'dance floor': scan Nirvana skyline.

Looking out along the limestone ledge at Emma returning from the tunnel.

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4.0 from 1 vote

Derek Field

Feb 10, 2017

“Dave Spies reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the first bolt was added.”

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Nearby Photos

Nirvana topo

07-03-20, with FA permission, Idaliza Sosa and I installed a two-bolt chain anchor at the top of the third pitch. We removed all webbing from the piñon tree previously used as an anchor. With a single 70m rope, you can rap directly to the P1 anchor.

Really cool funnel feature I noticed on the rap down.

Rare glimpse of the Nirvana vortex tunnel from Krakatoa. The tips crack above it is too steep and chossy for me and anyone wants it can go for it.

Ben channeling his inner caterpillar

Late afternoon at the third belay, on the first complete ascent. Contemplating where to go on Pitch 3. (Photo: Miranda Perrone)

Miranda leading the first pitch with husband Patrick on belay.

Leading the first pitch on an early ascent. Photo: Giselle Fernandez

Thumbs up for the awesome first pitch!

Nearing the top of the second pitch. (Photo: Joey Taylor)

Looking across at Nirvana from Mystery Spire.

Location of Nirvana as seen from the turnoff from the main Boynton Canyon trail.

Me cleaning P1. I thought this pitch was the best part of the climb.

Looking down at Mark from middle of P2.

Scenic rappel

Very fun laybacking on the first pitch. (Photo: Giselle Fernandez)

Bean leading the first pitch.<br>
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(Photo: Giselle Fernandez)

Parking lot view of one person on belay ledge below third pitch and two people on the 'dance floor': scan Nirvana skyline.

Dave Spies reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the first bolt was added.

Looking out along the limestone ledge at Emma returning from the tunnel.

Angry Rattlesnake (See rattlesnake topo + 4/19/18 comment). BE CAREFUL!!

Rattlesnake Topo (see comment 4/19/18)

Location of Nirvana as seen from Boynton Canyon trailhead.

great views from the top.

Top of the climb is an awesome place to hang out. We spent at least 30 minutes enjoying the view and watching clouds.

Mandatory bromance shot.

Nate and Alexis emerging from the tunnel.

Views are hard to beat.

Mark cruising up P1. The crux for me was actually getting off the ground and into "lie-back mode".

Cruising through "rattlesnake alley". Fortunately Mark went first and scared them all away.

Giselle laybacking the first pitch. Oops, sloppy belay.

Nate (blue helmet) starting P2 with Alexis (orange shirt) standing in the scoops belay atop P1.

Patrick emerging from the tunnel.

I think I saw at least 7 cliff dwellings in and around us on approach. This one was the easiest to get to but also a bit worn down.

Mark coming up to the belay on P2.

Alexis surfing the endless positive holds on P2.

Near the top of P2. Just clip and go. Next time I do this route, I'll leave the rack at the top of P1. The rest of the climb is just clipping bolts. Didn't feel like any supplemental trad gear was needed.

Nate and Alexis walking the limestone ledge. Photo taken from tunnel entrance.

Top of the route.

On lead looking down at the top of p1

Bean styling the second pitch.
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(Photo: Giselle Fernandez)

In This Photo

Dave Spies

Sedona, AZ