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> From Dali with Love (5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a)
ID 112478989 ·
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Yun Ji
Feb 5, 2017
“Start about 30m right of the massive chimney system that forms the elephants ears. This route climbs the large roof system that is accessed by a slab. Start under a short thin finger dihedral that reaches the ledge below the slab.
Dane Schellenberg and Ji Yun
2 Pitches
1st pitch 45m 5.11+
Climb the short fingers to hands dihedral that leads to a ledge and then step unto the bolted slab. Follow the slab up into the roof crack and head right into a delicate corner and a fun traverse under the roof. Build a belay once you get to solid hand jams just before the roof widens and turns up and right. Hanging belay.
Anchor: #1 to #4
2nd Pitch 15m 5.10-
Climb the sometimes burly corner until you get to a tree. You could belay off the tree, but a gear anchor is probably better.
Anchor: #.3 to #1
Gear: #000 to #4 (a #5 is useful), small wires and RPs
3rd Pitch UNCLIMBED
This route could easily continue up to the large ledge on the elephants trunk. Looks very wide. Bring yer sixes!
Descent: Rappel off of the small tree. If the long sling anchor is no longer there (f’ing mice) then you should leave one of your own. If you rappel directly off the tree the rope gets very easily jammed and won’t pull at all. Rappel about 30m down to a single bolt with a maillon on it. Another 30m rappel takes you to the ground.
”
Dane Schellenberg and Ji Yun
2 Pitches
1st pitch 45m 5.11+
Climb the short fingers to hands dihedral that leads to a ledge and then step unto the bolted slab. Follow the slab up into the roof crack and head right into a delicate corner and a fun traverse under the roof. Build a belay once you get to solid hand jams just before the roof widens and turns up and right. Hanging belay.
Anchor: #1 to #4
2nd Pitch 15m 5.10-
Climb the sometimes burly corner until you get to a tree. You could belay off the tree, but a gear anchor is probably better.
Anchor: #.3 to #1
Gear: #000 to #4 (a #5 is useful), small wires and RPs
3rd Pitch UNCLIMBED
This route could easily continue up to the large ledge on the elephants trunk. Looks very wide. Bring yer sixes!
Descent: Rappel off of the small tree. If the long sling anchor is no longer there (f’ing mice) then you should leave one of your own. If you rappel directly off the tree the rope gets very easily jammed and won’t pull at all. Rappel about 30m down to a single bolt with a maillon on it. Another 30m rappel takes you to the ground.
”
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