The Alcove pitch. One pitch from the top. Photo by Stephen Guyette.

All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > B. El Capitan > 2. Southwest Face > Nose (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2)

The Alcove pitch. One pitch from the top. Photo by Stephen Guyette.

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Shadow fun on Changing Corners pitch. Amazing climbing.

hauling after the Great Roof!

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4.5 from 2 votes

Jplotz

Sep 20, 2016

“The Alcove pitch. One pitch from the top. Photo by Stephen Guyette.”

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Nearby Photos

Brad sticking the Swing in style, just under halfway on our 6.5 hour run. Note my belay position, perfectly set-up for the "Double-Swing".<br>
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Brad has cleaned all of his gear off the Boot Flake, so once he's established on Eagle Ledge, he puts me on belay and I swing on over to join him. Mega stoke every time you stick the swing and here the Monkeys hooting in the Valley below.<br>
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Tom Evans Photo.

Camp 5

Texas flake anyone!!!

Think this pic speaks for itself!!!

About to complete the King Swing. <br>
Photo by Tom Evans

Last pitch on the nose. I'm following and bares is jugging up

This is what I'll remember most from the climb. Evening light after leading the Great Roof.

John Bachar photo of Lynn Hill, last pitch of The Nose.

Great Roof. Photo by Stephen Guyette.

Climbers on the nose

The Great Roof!

El Cap Tower, 1979

Looking down

My Tom Evans moment. Everyone should have one or several in his/her lifetime.

Evening at edge of the great roof.

Below the Boot

The shadow of the Nose in the early morning

Route Overlay for a 3-Day Ascent of the Nose (times correspond to our progress up the wall...)

P28+29 super fun free climbing 2500' off the ground. yeah!

Hans cruzin' up the stove legs ...

Camp 5

Starting up Pancake Flake

The Huber brothers on their speed record. One on top of the Boot Flake, the other on the way up. Other climbers at the base of Texas Flake and some on top of Dolt Tower.

Me leading on the last pitch of the Nose on our 6.5 hour run. Brad is jugging below, he's in the orange helmet all the way on the left.<br>
Huge confusion and cluster here as a Korean team of three finish a multi-day ascent, and an attempted NIAD team finish a 30+ hour run.<br>
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How we weaved our way through this cluster, I can't quite remember. The language barrier did no hamper us, though, as one of the Koreans allowed us to pass, referring to us as "Time Warriors".<br>
<br>
Tom Evans Photo

My partner Richard following the Great Roof.

Second to Last Pitch...ever!!!!!!

Letter to Steve Roper after the 3rd ascent .

at the top out tree. it took us two nights on the wall and a day prior to fix to sickle. (not my normal ascent style, but rewarding all the same.)

Relazing on El Cap Tower

Looking down from the belay at after the great roof.

Jugging high up on the Nose. Can't remember what pitch this was, maybe the top of Pancake Flake?

Pancake Flake, 1979

Me leading the pitch before the Great Roof - in the 70s

The Nose!!!

Jplotz cleaning the last bit of the Great Roof pitch.

If at first you don't succeed...

The great roof!

The Great Roof.

El Cap Tower bivy.

Nick and Jake tidying up on Dolt Tower

The belay after the Great Roof pitch

Dustin Moore jugging the impossibly exposed Changing Corners.

Chris Martin invincible on El Cap Tower.

looking up the nose from sickle ledge

Camp 5 Bivi Options

Jugging up into the Gray Bands at sunset

Bryce Overy and Levi Goldman Nov. 2018, just before changing corners.

Watching climbers on The Nose from the meadow with my girlfriend

Glory

DJ jugging The Great Roof.

1 pitch to go.... happy and psyched

Winnie the Poo, hanging out on El Cap Tower

Great roof is greater than great!!! :)

El Cap Tower.

Shadow fun on Changing Corners pitch. Amazing climbing.

The Alcove pitch. One pitch from the top. Photo by Stephen Guyette.

hauling after the Great Roof!

Stellar views. <br>
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Photo: Corey Gargano

Terry, stemming on the pitch below Camp 5

El Capitan-The Nose.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.