Pitch 1 from the base. We set an intermediate belay at the tree to give a visual for the upper chimney and reduce rope drag on the final cruxy moves before the belay.

All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley N Side > B. El Capitan > 4. E Buttress > E Buttress (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Pitch 1 from the base. We set an intermediate belay at the tree to give a visual for the upper chimney and reduce rope drag on the final cruxy moves before the belay.

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Pitch 10. The traverse at the top of Pitch 10. This is the start of Pitch 11 on some topos. Climbing it at the end of Pitch 10 allows you to have better communication with the leader and less rope drag on Pitch 11 but gives you a somewhat-small belay perch; climbing it at the start of Pitch 11 gives you a nice belay ledge but more rope drag and less communication with the leader.

Pitch 9. We chose to traverse left to a 5.9 face option rather than go into the 5.9 offwidth directly above.

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4.3 from 3 votes

Steph Abegg

Sep 13, 2016

“Pitch 1 from the base. We set an intermediate belay at the tree to give a visual for the upper chimney and reduce rope drag on the final cruxy moves before the belay.”

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Nearby Photos

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This is Steph Abegg's photo and her route in red. I overlaid our 7-pitch variation in lime-green. Steph, if I overstepped my bounds using your photo, please forgive me and I'll make sure it gets removed. PS: your website rocks!!!

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Photo op 1, pitch 3, Tony leading.

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Photo op 2 - pitch 7.

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Pitch 10. The traverse at the top of Pitch 10. This is the start of Pitch 11 on some topos. Climbing it at the end of Pitch 10 allows you to have better communication with the leader and less rope drag on Pitch 11 but gives you a somewhat-small belay perch; climbing it at the start of Pitch 11 gives you a nice belay ledge but more rope drag and less communication with the leader.

Pitch 1 from the base. We set an intermediate belay at the tree to give a visual for the upper chimney and reduce rope drag on the final cruxy moves before the belay.

Pitch 9. We chose to traverse left to a 5.9 face option rather than go into the 5.9 offwidth directly above.

Two pitch variation starting at the top of P4 and ending at the piton anchor at the top of pitch 6. The alternative version of P5 is a corner (5.10b), and the alternative P6 goes around a small roof to the left before traversing right on crimps (5.11a)

Pitch 11. Steep slightly-runout 5.8 knobby face climbing. The topo notes this as the mental crux of the route.

Picture of me heading into my favorite pitch on the climb (pitch 8)

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Pitch 1: Final cruxy stem moves before the belay.

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Photo by Blitzo.

John Steiger on off-width variation of pitch 9. The easier way (see Fish Topo): climb the face at bottom middle of the photo. Note the "rain" from Horsetail falls is starting, which soaked the pitch by the time I followed.

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Pitch 4: Looking down the wildly exposed arete on this pitch.

Pitch 1: Chimney.

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