This may not be the easiest approach. I drive a commuter car (07 Toyota Camry SE) I had to park on the main road and approach from the west. Mexican Mountain Rd was washed out and impassable. The route we took starts up the main drainage at the base of the west window blind, it becomes extremely hard, extremely steep, and extremely stressful. The hardest part of the whole ordeal was getting to the climb. There are a couple sets of anchors on the approach that I will try to point out. You may need to place gear to get passed the first set of cliff bands. I did not. I free climbed in my approach shoes and then pulled up our backpacks and belayed my partner. Most of this approach is fourth class and some of it is fifth so be prepared to free climb some crack and a lot of slab. Hiking shoes are basically a must. This is not a hike for Chacos.
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Jeremiah Luke
Sep 4, 2016
This may not be the easiest approach. I drive a commuter car (07 Toyota Camry SE) I had to park on the main road and approach from the west. Mexican Mountain Rd was washed out and impassable. The route we took starts up the main drainage at the base of the west window blind, it becomes extremely hard, extremely steep, and extremely stressful. The hardest part of the whole ordeal was getting to the climb. There are a couple sets of anchors on the approach that I will try to point out. You may need to place gear to get passed the first set of cliff bands. I did not. I free climbed in my approach shoes and then pulled up our backpacks and belayed my partner. Most of this approach is fourth class and some of it is fifth so be prepared to free climb some crack and a lot of slab. Hiking shoes are basically a must. This is not a hike for Chacos.

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