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All Locations > International > Europe > United Kingdom > Wales > Anglesey > Gogarth > A Dream of White Horses (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)
Slab climbing on pitch one or two, depending on how you do the route.<br> <br> This climb is everything you could dream of - just 'brilliant'.
ID 112115730 ·
A Dream of White Horses
I thought the slab pitches (although pretty steep to be called 'slab') were solid and just a move or two of hard face. But, the last pitch is hard - er. I found the crux to be about 40' into it, where you have to traverse some wet footholds, under-clinging some slick rounded holds above. Then, you step down a long ways, facing a pretty big swing either leading or following.<br> <br> The wind, the sound of the sea, not communicating with the belayer, and a few other cool factors go into making this all worth the effort of living the Dream.
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RKM
Sep 1, 2016
“Slab climbing on pitch one or two, depending on how you do the route.

This climb is everything you could dream of - just 'brilliant'. ”  

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Nearby Photos

Looking across to Wen Slab from the finish of the climb (photo by Phil Ashton)
dreamy
Starting the last pitch traverse, yes the camera is tilted a little.
Looking down from DOWH
Marc Chrysanthou, early 80's
A Dream of White Horses
Slab climbing on pitch one or two, depending on how you do the route.<br> <br> This climb is everything you could dream of - just 'brilliant'.
I thought the slab pitches (although pretty steep to be called 'slab') were solid and just a move or two of hard face. But, the last pitch is hard - er. I found the crux to be about 40' into it, where you have to traverse some wet footholds, under-clinging some slick rounded holds above. Then, you step down a long ways, facing a pretty big swing either leading or following.<br> <br> The wind, the sound of the sea, not communicating with the belayer, and a few other cool factors go into making this all worth the effort of living the Dream.
Leo Dickinson's classic shot of the first ascent.
The climb finishes by traversing leftwards across the back wall, overhanging the sea (photo by Phil Ashton).
Halfway across DOWH