I thought the slab pitches (although pretty steep to be called 'slab') were solid and just a move or two of hard face. But, the last pitch is hard - er. I found the crux to be about 40' into it, where you have to traverse some wet footholds, under-clinging some slick rounded holds above. Then, you step down a long ways, facing a pretty big swing either leading or following. <br> <br> The wind, the sound of the sea, not communicating with the belayer, and a few other cool factors go into making this all worth the effort of living the Dream.

All Locations > International > Europe > United Kingdom > Wales > Anglesey > Gogarth > A Dream of White Horses (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

I thought the slab pitches (although pretty steep to be called 'slab') were solid and just a move or two of hard face. But, the last pitch is hard - er. I found the crux to be about 40' into it, where you have to traverse some wet footholds, under-clinging some slick rounded holds above. Then, you step down a long ways, facing a pretty big swing either leading or following.<br>
<br>
The wind, the sound of the sea, not communicating with the belayer, and a few other cool factors go into making this all worth the effort of living the Dream.

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Setting off on "Dream of White Horses". Wales, UK

Looking across to Wen Slab from the finish of the climb (photo by Phil Ashton)

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RKM

Sep 1, 2016

“I thought the slab pitches (although pretty steep to be called 'slab') were solid and just a move or two of hard face. But, the last pitch is hard - er. I found the crux to be about 40' into it, where you have to traverse some wet footholds, under-clinging some slick rounded holds above. Then, you step down a long ways, facing a pretty big swing either leading or following.

The wind, the sound of the sea, not communicating with the belayer, and a few other cool factors go into making this all worth the effort of living the Dream.”

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Nearby Photos

Looking across to Wen Slab from the finish of the climb (photo by Phil Ashton)

Leo Dickinson's classic shot of the first ascent.

David Kozak on pitch two traverse, photo by Andy Gresh

dreamy

nearing the pitch 2 hanging belay and showing the juggy nature of the pitch. Good fun.

David Kozak on final pitch. Image by Andy Gresh

Slab climbing on pitch one or two, depending on how you do the route.<br>
<br>
This climb is everything you could dream of - just 'brilliant'.

Starting the last pitch traverse, yes the camera is tilted a little.

Looking down from DOWH

Marc Chrysanthou, early 80's

A Dream of White Horses

The climb finishes by traversing leftwards across the back wall, overhanging the sea (photo by Phil Ashton).

On the money pitch, heading to the dihedral to ascend. Such a fun climb. Thanks to my partner, local Alex Holt for the pics and the partnership!

Setting off on "Dream of White Horses". Wales, UK

I thought the slab pitches (although pretty steep to be called 'slab') were solid and just a move or two of hard face. But, the last pitch is hard - er. I found the crux to be about 40' into it, where you have to traverse some wet footholds, under-clinging some slick rounded holds above. Then, you step down a long ways, facing a pretty big swing either leading or following.<br>
<br>
The wind, the sound of the sea, not communicating with the belayer, and a few other cool factors go into making this all worth the effort of living the Dream.

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