There are a couple of ways to access the corner. One is to climb a 5.2 ramp system on the left below the corner and the other way is to climb up the first pitch of the Great Chimney route. We chose to climb the first pitch of the Great Chimney, since this is a unique feature that forms a giant rut up the mountain. The climbing on Pitch 1 is 4th class on relatively solid rock. It is low-angled enough that the climbing is more just climbing steppy rock on the back of the chimney/rut than doing any actual chimneying. It is about a 300 foot pitch from the base of the chimney to the base of the corner, so we did some simulclimbing in order to do it as one pitch.
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Steph Abegg
Sep 1, 2016
There are a couple of ways to access the corner. One is to climb a 5.2 ramp system on the left below the corner and the other way is to climb up the first pitch of the Great Chimney route. We chose to climb the first pitch of the Great Chimney, since this is a unique feature that forms a giant rut up the mountain. The climbing on Pitch 1 is 4th class on relatively solid rock. It is low-angled enough that the climbing is more just climbing steppy rock on the back of the chimney/rut than doing any actual chimneying. It is about a 300 foot pitch from the base of the chimney to the base of the corner, so we did some simulclimbing in order to do it as one pitch.

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