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The gear.
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ANGUS WIESSNER
Aug 24, 2016
The gear.  
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
A nut at the crux is a great idea. However, I strongly advise against placing a #9 blue stopper, as it sits perfectly where you want your fingers to go for the fingerlock. Instead, a #8 yellow or #7 red will sit at the bottom of the fingerlock and out of the way as you pull the crux.
Additionally, I found that any hand-sized piece before the fingerlock will only get in the way as well. Kudos to those placing in the bomber handjam though. Apr 14, 2017
The other day I used, in order:
4 Metolius (red), equalized with 00 Metolius, #2 Camalot, #0.5 Camalot, #1 Camalot, #2 Friend, #0.75 Camalot, #2.5 Friend, #0.3 Camalot, #0 and 2 Metolius. In the final seam, which I would do differently in the future, they plugged the best finger slot #0.4 Camalot. Sep 5, 2016

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