Approaching Snafflefold Ledge (officially the end of P3, though it takes most parties 4-5 pitches to get here). We approached from directly below, climbing a short dirty chimney.

All Locations > Washington > Central-East Ca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Prusik Peak > South Face Beckey-Davis Route (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Approaching Snafflefold Ledge (officially the end of P3, though it takes most parties 4-5 pitches to get here). We approached from directly below, climbing a short dirty chimney.

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Looking up Pitch 3 (ends at Snafflehound Ledge).

Pitch 1 of Burgner Stanley is the wide hand crack on the left. Pitch 1 of Beckey-Davis is the chimney on the right. Can climb Pitch 1 of Burgner-Stanley and intersect Beckey-Davis route above this.

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Serge Smirnov

Aug 22, 2016

“Approaching Snafflefold Ledge (officially the end of P3, though it takes most parties 4-5 pitches to get here). We approached from directly below, climbing a short dirty chimney.”

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Route Overlays Prusik Peak.

The .10a splitter option to finish off the route. (Pitch 7) It's not every route where you get to pull a 5.10 move and pop out right onto the summit.

Somewhere near the end of Pitch 5 or start of Pitch 6. There is a nice belay ledge at the tree above (which would make Pitch 5 long and Pitch 6 short).

Higher up on Pitch 5.

Pitch 5 starts in a shallow dihedral with a crack on the left. This may or may not be it. It seemed a bit hard for 5.9 but it worked and was in line with the finish of the route high above.

Pitch 4 (traverse across Snafflehound Ledge).

Looking up Pitch 3 (ends at Snafflehound Ledge).

Approaching Snafflefold Ledge (officially the end of P3, though it takes most parties 4-5 pitches to get here). We approached from directly below, climbing a short dirty chimney.

Pitch 1 of Burgner Stanley is the wide hand crack on the left. Pitch 1 of Beckey-Davis is the chimney on the right. Can climb Pitch 1 of Burgner-Stanley and intersect Beckey-Davis route above this.

~150' into P2 (or 30' into P3). Ended up being .9+ further up, so maybe we were off route. At this point my partner tried going elsewhere first, then gave up, down-climbed, and climbed as shown here.

~120' into P2. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1109178 calls this the start of P3.

~100' into P2

60-70' into P2 - this is where we went right to avoid the 10+ diagonal double cracks that Erroneous mentions.

I suspect this is the 10+ crack (60-70' into P2) that Erroneous & co climbed. We went right at this point instead of climbing the crack.

Nearing the notch at the top of Pitch 6.

Nearing the top of Pitch 6.

Traverse at top of Pitch 1 of Burgner-Stanley to the top of the chimney on Beckey-Davis. This avoids having to climb the sparsely-protected chimney of the Beckey-Davis Pitch 1. (Based on other photos I've seen, I am not absolutely positive we stopped/traversed into the "treed ledge" at the top of the chimney noted in the route description, but there was a tree there and a ledge there and it was at the top of the chimney so it seemed correct. Perhaps could come in higher or lower too, not sure.)

Pitch 2 is a bit in-obvious but follows the knobby face and cracks towards a gully/chimney system above (where the rope goes in the photo).

Base of the route, there is a large kairn (not pictured) marking the general area to start Stanley-Burgner and Beckey-Davis