Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.

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Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.

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5.6 gully on Pitch 15 after tension traverse.

More detailed view of p11 - starting headwall. This is why you want that #4. Fists are over quick, felt about 10-.

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Steph Abegg

Aug 1, 2016

“Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.”

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Nearby Photos

South Howser from the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard

Route Overlay Beckey-Chouinard.

What could be better than getting Fred's blessing before hiking in to climb South Howser?

"Glaciers and Forest Fire" Starting the raps on a beautiful August evening. Photo credit Evan Ludmer

A long walk awaited us that night. We were camped at a small tarn above Cobalt Lake. Took about three hours to get there. July 1979

launching off

Great White Headwall. This is not the BC route. It is harder. But looks way cool.

Tim and Grant nearing the top

The dihedral on the lower part of the BC, with the headwall above.

On the great white headwall.

Peter Cole at the top of the B-C/South Howser Tower, July 1979 - photo by Dennis Ellsohn

A rimed up view of the route after a four day storm. July 1979

A group working the head wall cracks just above the bivy ledge. Not sure what they go at?
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August 2, 2017

Erik & Felix super stoked to be on the summit of South Howser Tower.

From the summit looking North West during sunset

Perspectives<br>

Tension traverse (or 5.10 free) at start of Pitch 15.

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Looking up from the base of the rap route.

Dennis Ellsohn jugging snowy iced up cracks on day 2. July 1979

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

Starting up Pitch 11.

Partial solar eclipse taken through a pair of very sweaty cardboard eclipse glasses from the top of Pitch 9.

Freeing the headwall traverse with a decent .75 placement midway.

Sunset on the big bivy ledge below the headwall.

Pitch 14.

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

Pitch 10. The right-hand crack is a bit easier.

The Becky-Chouinard ridge catching a striking last light. Taken from summit ridge of North Howser. August 2023

Pitch 8.

The rap route puts you on flat glacier.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall climbs a short 5.10 offwidth/fist crack, then up these steep 5.9 cracks to the belay

The awesome corner of Pitches 6-7.

Pitch 5.

Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser<br>
Photo by Mtn. Proj. contributor Timmy! Tormey

Can use these pins for the tension traverse at start of Pitch 15.

Harz on the tricky traverse above the headwall.

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

Lost in the sauce of the corners on the Great White Headwall.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Nearing the top of the B-C at sunset.

Pitch 6 or 7.

Descent anchors

Dennis Ellsohn at the bivy in July 1979

At the Pigeon-Howser Col looking down into East Creek Basin.

Pitch 12. Squeeze above.

Me at the rap station after the crux pitch

The climb ends with ~150-200m of 4th + several short 5th class moves.

5.6 gully on Pitch 15 after tension traverse.

Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.

More detailed view of p11 - starting headwall. This is why you want that #4. Fists are over quick, felt about 10-.

Pitch 13.

The great white headwall

At the top of Pitch 15, make a 20m rappel to the right to easier blocky terrain.

Hazy descent

Rappels 4-5 go down this corner system that faces North Howser.

Scramble to the summit of S. Howser. First rap station to go towards Central Howser consists of cord (Aug, 2023) and is found just to the north.

Pitch 9.