Route Overlay Sunshine Crack.

All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mounta… > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Snowpatch Spire > Sunshine Crack (5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c)

Route Overlay Sunshine Crack.

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Pitch 6.

The pitch 2 offwidth.

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Steph Abegg

Jul 31, 2016

“Route Overlay Sunshine Crack.”

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Nearby Photos

The last pitch, hands and fists for 100', then hand traverse right and back up and left following the crack as it forms a backwards "C" to the top, awesome pitch.

Pitch 6. Some of that notorious Bugs weather.<br>
Matt Lloyd Photo

Gomoll slaying p2. Sunshine Cracks (11-), Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, BC.

Sunshine: the the sweetest crack in the Bugs!

The last pitch as seen from Bugaboo Spire

My well worn hands after Sunshine Crack.

Splitter fist crack of Pitch 10.

So good

Approaching Sunshine Crack.

North side of Snowpatch Spire seen from lower part of Kain Route.

Final moves on the last pitch.

Pitch 4.

Pitch 2.

Pitch 1.

Climbers on Sunshine Crack.

upper pitch of Sunshine crack

Pitch 8.

Pitch 11 has two options: Either make a 5.10 bouldery move out left to gain a 5.8 crack or climb a 5.10+ crack to the right. We went left (pictured n the photo).

Pitch 7. The 5.11- roof is above.

On top of the route. North summit behind. Most parties rappel the route. But you can continue to the North summit via the Buckingham route and rapping the Beckey-Greenwood rappel route.

D. Snipes on the 1st pitch of Sunshine Crack

Andrew G. coming up the layback on pitch 3.

The roof on Pitch 5. The route line on our route description seemed to go over the roof just right of the crack on the lower wall. This move was an athletic jug pull over the roof with a somewhat desperate clip of a fixed nut. It felt 5.10. On the rappel we saw a party surmounting the roof further left, which looked a bit easier. That way had been a bit wet in the morning so we had not even really considered it. But it might be the easier way to go if dry. Either way works and is great climbing.

Pitch 6.

Route Overlay Sunshine Crack.

The pitch 2 offwidth.

Unknown Climber on Pitch 2. Bugaboo Corner follows that OW crack and Sunshine pulls hands out the roof on the right crack just above climber in green, then follow a handrail right

Jon on the hand rail of Pitch 3.

Following the third pitch

Pitch 9. (this was when the sun first hit us on the route, at 2:30pm, July 28, 2106).

The obvious line

The first rappel. All of the rappels are off the belay anchors on the route. We made 8 double-rope rappels (rapped from anchors at tops of: P11, P9, P8, P7, P5, P4, P3, P1) to get down although I think we could have done it in 7 (could probably rap all the way to P2 from P). You definitely need two ropes (or a single 80m rope) to rappel the route, as some pitches are up to 40m long.

This is the bonus 50' 5.10 corner (followed by 4th class) we climbed to get to the base because the B-S col was unloading huge rocks every couple minutes. This pitch might be hard to access depending on the condition of the bergschrund.