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All Locations > N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Pickens Nose > Top Rope Wall > Chimney (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)
This view shows the alternate start (yellow) from the other angle, and part of the normal start.
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Mark leading in unexpectedly excellent weather.
Alternate Boulder Start: begin in the carbonized corner of the Rock and find the few good handholds; pull up and traverse the boulder using decent smears and a few dishes, handholds are fairly well spaced. Throw high hands in to the chockstones and mantel up, then proceed into the chimney like normal. I'd probably call it a 5.8 start if I had to guess, but it also seems a little less sketchy than the entrance directly below the chimney. I'd still belay from the same spot and not place gear in until in the chimney proper.
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Luke R
Jul 30, 2016
“This view shows the alternate start (yellow) from the other angle, and part of the normal start. ”  

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This view shows the alternate start (yellow) from the other angle, and part of the normal start.
Alternate Boulder Start: begin in the carbonized corner of the Rock and find the few good handholds; pull up and traverse the boulder using decent smears and a few dishes, handholds are fairly well spaced. Throw high hands in to the chockstones and mantel up, then proceed into the chimney like normal. I'd probably call it a 5.8 start if I had to guess, but it also seems a little less sketchy than the entrance directly below the chimney. I'd still belay from the same spot and not place gear in until in the chimney proper.
Pickens Nose - The Chimney
Mark leading in unexpectedly excellent weather.