After climbing this formation a couple times via different lines, I think this is the 5.8 line most would consider the easiest way up Eyetooth. After the first gulley pitch (dotted line - gulley not able to be seen from this angle) belay from the ledge, and go right up the large flake, making your way up and left via the flakes to the final bolted slab.

All Locations > S Dakota > Custer SP > Cathedral Spires > Eyetooth > Eyetooth (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

After climbing this formation a couple times via different lines, I think this is the 5.8 line most would consider the easiest way up Eyetooth. After the first gulley pitch (dotted line - gulley not able to be seen from this angle) belay from the ledge, and go right up the large flake, making your way up and left via the flakes to the final bolted slab.

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Eyetooth on the left taken from the Picket Fence area.

Jay on Eyetooth 5.8 route. From the top of this flake, high and left into the next smaller flake, then high and left again into the corner cracks, to the top.

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chris tregge

Jul 19, 2016

“After climbing this formation a couple times via different lines, I think this is the 5.8 line most would consider the easiest way up Eyetooth. After the first gulley pitch (dotted line - gulley not able to be seen from this angle) belay from the ledge, and go right up the large flake, making your way up and left via the flakes to the final bolted slab. ”

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Nearby Photos

Eyetooth from the top of first pitch of East Gruesome

Another shot near the top of Eyetooth.

The view of eyetooth while rappeling from Spire 4

Nate Erickson and Dova Tawoda on Eyetooth. 7/6/18.

70m gets to 1m from ground per photo

5.7 handcrack start, fun climbing with great gear. Plumb line with summit allow for a one pitch climb with minimal rope drag.

Eyetooth from downhill in the Spire Four-Five gully.

This is the view of the gully you want as seen from the climber's trail. You can't really see the spire until you've gone up the gully a ways. You'll also see an obvious fork of the climber's trail at this gully headed left up into the gully. Take that

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High up on Eyetooth.

Jay coming up the Eyetooth. May 09.

Aaron Costello climbing Eyetooth.

Sam onsighting Eyetooth. June 2019.

Eyetooth on the left taken from the Picket Fence area.

After climbing this formation a couple times via different lines, I think this is the 5.8 line most would consider the easiest way up Eyetooth. After the first gulley pitch (dotted line - gulley not able to be seen from this angle) belay from the ledge, and go right up the large flake, making your way up and left via the flakes to the final bolted slab.

Jay on Eyetooth 5.8 route. From the top of this flake, high and left into the next smaller flake, then high and left again into the corner cracks, to the top.

A little different view of Eyetooth from the summit of Spire Five. Spire Four and South Tower stand tall next to Eyetooth.

Jay on top. May 09.

View behind Eyetooth from the top. May 09.

Trying to figure out how to best traverse over to the belay ledge... Actually this turned out to be a very nice, well protected, fun to climb way to get up there. Alas we were forced down after getting to the ledge by a setting sun and weak dispositions. Next year... Photo Aaron Costello.

I guess this will work, let's see where it goes... The Piana guide left a little to the imagination. Photo Aaron Costello.

Is this it??? I didn't really want to "climb" that dirty gulley over to the left to the belay ledge... Photo Aaron Costello.

Eyetooth from the top of Spire 4.

Eyetooth from atop Spire 4.

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