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Matterhorn Peak couloirs
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jt newgard
Jul 14, 2016
Matterhorn Peak couloirs  
Hi Hailman- no, we did not proceed past the glacier, this mainly due to time of day and slow progress on approach…but the snow seemed rather unstable, there were 6+ inches of soft new stuff on a very hard consolidated base. Not sure how it would have gone up the couloir. I want to return next spring with a little less snow on the ground, hence my question as to date of your photo (which looked very nice). Which side did you ascend, and how was it? Thanks for the intel and good climbing in the future! Jul 21, 2016
P.S. , here is a shot from approach and this was Memorial Day weekend. What a difference a year makes huh?
Jul 21, 2016
jt newgard
Ventura, CA
jt newgard   Ventura, CA
I've made that decision to turn around as well. The conditions you had sound difficult...but the peak with all that snow is quite a sight.

Thanks for posting the we have a side by side comparison of Matterhorn after the worst snow year ever and a normal year!

I went up the east couloir last year. Very fun climb, moderately steep, and at the time there were a few ledges exposed along the way which allowed me to take a rest. I was surprised how short and easy the rock portion went after exiting the couloir. Jul 26, 2016

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