Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

All Locations > Wyoming > Devils Tower > Durrance Approach > Durrance (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

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Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

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4.2 from 12 votes

nbollier

Jul 13, 2016

“Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch”

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I did the jump and would highly recommend it to everyone doing the Durrance route. It was both the scariest and most awesome thing ever! If you haven't done the jump traverse, you haven't done the Durrance!

Unhappy partner after the 3rd pitch

Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

Durrance

Topo of the Durrance and Bowling Alley rappels.

Climbers on the first 3 pitches of the Durrance (5/89).<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Huebner

How wide can a 13-year-old smile? Climb Durrance to find out!

Climbed Durrance in June 1950 without <br>
hardware

Summit Party...

partner seconding pitch 4 in mid-january. The mass of snow below him is the last belay ledge.

"Softtail" stems up the Leaning Column

I get the 2nd pitch of great gear and two cracks for jammin. It's stiff for the 5.6 grade, in most people's opinions.

Almost at the top and nothing can beat the excitement of sharing my passion with my daughter. We were the first party on the route and finished it in 4.5 hours

Dan finishes off the short face climb at the top of Bailey Direct pitch. It's a fun face climb after a day of off-widths. This short portion can be protected with a #4 camalot in the crack on the left. (Photo credit: Dave G.)

Martha Campbell struts her stuff on the first pitch up to the start of the Durrance Route.

looking down the durance. keith on the right

Rappelling off Durrance in the dark. Be sure to watch out for your rope getting caught in the cracks

Early morning shot of the SE face of Devils Tower: taken Aug 2001

My good friend having on Durrance

1974 on the Durrance with large Hexentric nuts, bong-bong pitons, and "Robbins boots". In 1974 you still needed to get "checked out and approved" by the Park Rangers. (photo by Steve Schofield)

Higher up P2 in 1974 (photo by Steve Schofield)

Locked, cocked, and trying not to die (he dropped the rope backpack before climbing)

Leader's perspective looking down the Durrance Crack...

Durrance - 1974 Painter's Pants, pitons and doubled biner's (no slings) !

Jenni and her friend flew from Oregon with the specific intent of climbing Durrance. It's always a RUSH watching Newbies react...<br>

At the tipy top of Bear Lodge

Cussin

Just after completing the Durrance pitch. Don't forget to thrutch hard on this pitch in particular, and please remember not to die.

Mahlon Hewitt starting the Leaning Column (P1) on the Durrance Route, Devils Tower. Photo by Mike Dirksen.

at the first anchors<br>

After leading the 2nd pitch, Josh looks like he's ready for "Hollywood"...<br>

Durrance has the best belay ledges!!

1,2,3, JUMP!

Rope management on the leaning column belay ledge.

keith again

I learned form my first attempt and brought this for lap two. 1 full run of cams, (doubles .5 & .75) [#5 is optional placed it twice but neither felt crazy necessary] nuts 4-10, 3 tri cams, hexes 4-5, 4 QDs, 3 alpine draws, & 4 dbl lengths. Bailey direct.

Summit photo

Starting up the money pitch!

Shelly at a rest point half way up the Durrance Crack pitch, smiling because she knows she has a #5 Camalot to stick in the top.

getting through the chock stone

coming down

Alison Larsen contemplating the jump traverse.

This is what you can expect for most of the belay ledges on Durance. Two or three bolts at about chest height, very solid.

Looking down from the top of the leaning column belay ledge.

Durrance

Here's Jenny Antin starting the the wide step-across section. It's 5.7 climbing here. The #5 is not mandatory, but sure nice to have here.

chimney fun

Starting up the Leaning Column pitch, a long time ago.

Climbed Durrance route1950 without <br>
hardware.

unknown climbers on the route<br>

Jerry Campbell running up the broken column pitch. Very nice climbing with great gear.

Josh "Wiener" Streifel begins the infamous "Jump Traverse"...

Me above the leaning column, starting on the 'Durrance' pitch. The climb was more fun than expected.

Bob Lewis starts up P3 "Cussin Crack"

Bob Lewis starts up P1 on Durrance

Why do they call it the "Bowling Alley"... it just doesn't make sense...

Cussin Crack and flake pitch above

Top of the crux pitch

In This Photo

Brandon Kupczyk

Elmhurst