Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

All Locations > Wyoming > Devil's Tower > Durrance Approach > Durrance (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

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I did the jump and would highly recommend it to everyone doing the Durrance route. It was both the scariest and most awesome thing ever! If you haven't done the jump traverse, you haven't done the Durrance!

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

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4.2 from 10 votes

nbollier

Jul 13, 2016

“Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch”

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Unhappy partner after the 3rd pitch

I did the jump and would highly recommend it to everyone doing the Durrance route. It was both the scariest and most awesome thing ever! If you haven't done the jump traverse, you haven't done the Durrance!

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

Durrance

Climbers on the first 3 pitches of the Durrance (5/89).<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Huebner

How wide can a 13-year-old smile? Climb Durrance to find out!

Topo of the Durrance and Bowling Alley rappels.

Climbed Durrance in June 1950 without <br>
hardware

looking down the durance. keith on the right

partner seconding pitch 4 in mid-january. The mass of snow below him is the last belay ledge.

"Softtail" stems up the Leaning Column

Summit Party...

Leader's perspective looking down the Durrance Crack...

Higher up P2 in 1974 (photo by Steve Schofield)

1974 on the Durrance with large Hexentric nuts, bong-bong pitons, and "Robbins boots". In 1974 you still needed to get "checked out and approved" by the Park Rangers. (photo by Steve Schofield)

My good friend having on Durrance

I get the 2nd pitch of great gear and two cracks for jammin. It's stiff for the 5.6 grade, in most people's opinions.

Durrance - 1974 Painter's Pants, pitons and doubled biner's (no slings) !

Locked, cocked, and trying not to die (he dropped the rope backpack before climbing)

Cussin

Jenni and her friend flew from Oregon with the specific intent of climbing Durrance. It's always a RUSH watching Newbies react...<br>

Durrance has the best belay ledges!!

Mahlon Hewitt starting the Leaning Column (P1) on the Durrance Route, Devils Tower. Photo by Mike Dirksen.

After leading the 2nd pitch, Josh looks like he's ready for "Hollywood"...<br>

Early morning shot of the SE face of Devils Tower: taken Aug 2001

At the tipy top of Bear Lodge

Just after completing the Durrance pitch. Don't forget to thrutch hard on this pitch in particular, and please remember not to die.

1,2,3, JUMP!

at the first anchors<br>

Rope management on the leaning column belay ledge.

Keith on the crux pitch

Cussin Crack and flake pitch above

Rappelling off Durrance in the dark. Be sure to watch out for your rope getting caught in the cracks

Josh "Wiener" Streifel begins the infamous "Jump Traverse"...

Durrance crack

Me above the leaning column, starting on the 'Durrance' pitch. The climb was more fun than expected.

Climbed Durrance route1950 without <br>
hardware.

unknown climbers on the route<br>

Andrew Kuklinski cracks off the direct finish to the Durrance Route

Looking down from the top of the leaning column belay ledge.

Bob Lewis starts up P3 "Cussin Crack"

Durrance

Here's Jenny Antin starting the the wide step-across section. It's 5.7 climbing here. The #5 is not mandatory, but sure nice to have here.

Starting up the money pitch!

keith again

Alison Larsen contemplating the jump traverse.

chimney fun

Why do they call it the "Bowling Alley"... it just doesn't make sense...

getting through the chock stone

This is what you can expect for most of the belay ledges on Durance. Two or three bolts at about chest height, very solid.

Bob Lewis starts up P1 on Durrance

coming down

Starting up the Leaning Column pitch, a long time ago.

Jerry Campbell running up the broken column pitch. Very nice climbing with great gear.

Shelly at a rest point half way up the Durrance Crack pitch, smiling because she knows she has a #5 Camalot to stick in the top.

Martha Campbell struts her stuff on the first pitch up to the start of the Durrance Route.

The 1st 2 Pitches of Durrance

Dan finishes off the short face climb at the top of Bailey Direct pitch. It's a fun face climb after a day of off-widths. This short portion can be protected with a #4 camalot in the crack on the left. (Photo credit: Dave G.)

In This Photo

Brandon Kupczyk

Elmhurst