Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

All Locations > Wyoming > Devils Tower > Durrance Approach > Durrance (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

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Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

How wide can a 13-year-old smile? Climb Durrance to find out!

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4.2 from 36 votes

nbollier

Jul 13, 2016

“Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch”

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Topo of the Durrance and Bowling Alley rappels.

I did the jump and would highly recommend it to everyone doing the Durrance route. It was both the scariest and most awesome thing ever! If you haven't done the jump traverse, you haven't done the Durrance!

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

Unhappy partner after the 3rd pitch

Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

How wide can a 13-year-old smile? Climb Durrance to find out!

"Softtail" stems up the Leaning Column

I learned form my first attempt and brought this for lap two. 1 full run of cams, (doubles .5 & .75) [#5 is optional placed it twice but neither felt crazy necessary] nuts 4-10, 3 tri cams, hexes 4-5, 4 QDs, 3 alpine draws, & 4 dbl lengths. Bailey direct.

partner seconding pitch 4 in mid-january. The mass of snow below him is the last belay ledge.

Durrance

Summit Party...

Climbers on the first 3 pitches of the Durrance (5/89).<br>
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Photo by Paul Huebner

In the business! Mid "Jump"

1974 on the Durrance with large Hexentric nuts, bong-bong pitons, and "Robbins boots". In 1974 you still needed to get "checked out and approved" by the Park Rangers. (photo by Steve Schofield)

Climbed Durrance in June 1950 without <br>
hardware

Higher up P2 in 1974 (photo by Steve Schofield)

I get the 2nd pitch of great gear and two cracks for jammin. It's stiff for the 5.6 grade, in most people's opinions.

Enjoying the summit scenery

Leader's perspective looking down the Durrance Crack...

Joe about to enter the wide of the spectacular Durrance.

Starting up the Leaning Column pitch, a long time ago.

A night rap off the tower.
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Climber: Logan Dop

looking down the durance. keith on the right

Austin Lipe leading the leaning column seen from the belay.

top of pitch 4

Dylan Hird making the jump. Only way to really climb this route right

Dylan Hird at the top of the Durrance pitch

Dylan Hird at the top of the Durrance pitch

the rap down after durrance seen on right edge of photo

Durrance - 1974 Painter's Pants, pitons and doubled biner's (no slings) !

Why do they call it the "Bowling Alley"... it just doesn't make sense...

Early morning shot of the SE face of Devils Tower: taken Aug 2001

Locked, cocked, and trying not to die (he dropped the rope backpack before climbing)

Martha Campbell struts her stuff on the first pitch up to the start of the Durrance Route.

Almost at the top and nothing can beat the excitement of sharing my passion with my daughter. We were the first party on the route and finished it in 4.5 hours

coming down

Leading up the Durrance crack

This is what you can expect for most of the belay ledges on Durance. Two or three bolts at about chest height, very solid.

Jenni and her friend flew from Oregon with the specific intent of climbing Durrance. It's always a RUSH watching Newbies react...<br>

My good friend having on Durrance

Rappelling off Durrance in the dark. Be sure to watch out for your rope getting caught in the cracks

At the tipy top of Bear Lodge

1,2,3, JUMP!

Mahlon Hewitt starting the Leaning Column (P1) on the Durrance Route, Devils Tower. Photo by Mike Dirksen.

Cussin

Just after completing the Durrance pitch. Don't forget to thrutch hard on this pitch in particular, and please remember not to die.

Durrance has the best belay ledges!!

After leading the 2nd pitch, Josh looks like he's ready for "Hollywood"...<br>

Dan finishes off the short face climb at the top of Bailey Direct pitch. It's a fun face climb after a day of off-widths. This short portion can be protected with a #4 camalot in the crack on the left. (Photo credit: Dave G.)

at the first anchors<br>

Rope management on the leaning column belay ledge.

Cussin Crack and flake pitch above

Friday, September 13th, Harvest Moon.

getting through the chock stone

Embracing the thick on Durrance

In the bowling ally!

Jerry Campbell running up the broken column pitch. Very nice climbing with great gear.

Chockstone crack

Leaning Column

In This Photo

Brandon Kupczyk

Salt Lake City