Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

All Locations > Wyoming > Devils Tower > Durrance Approach > Durrance (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

ID 111996326 ·

Flag This Photo

· Copyright Violation?

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

Topo of the Durrance and Bowling Alley rappels.

Rate Photo

4.1 from 24 votes

nbollier

Jul 13, 2016

“Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch”

0 Comments

Nearby Photos

I did the jump and would highly recommend it to everyone doing the Durrance route. It was both the scariest and most awesome thing ever! If you haven't done the jump traverse, you haven't done the Durrance!

Unhappy partner after the 3rd pitch

Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

Topo of the Durrance and Bowling Alley rappels.

How wide can a 13-year-old smile? Climb Durrance to find out!

Summit Party...

Durrance

"Softtail" stems up the Leaning Column

Climbers on the first 3 pitches of the Durrance (5/89).<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Huebner

Higher up P2 in 1974 (photo by Steve Schofield)

I get the 2nd pitch of great gear and two cracks for jammin. It's stiff for the 5.6 grade, in most people's opinions.

In the business! Mid "Jump"

Why do they call it the "Bowling Alley"... it just doesn't make sense...

Climbed Durrance in June 1950 without <br>
hardware

A night rap off the tower.
<br>

<br>
Climber: Logan Dop

partner seconding pitch 4 in mid-january. The mass of snow below him is the last belay ledge.

Joe about to enter the wide of the spectacular Durrance.

Almost at the top and nothing can beat the excitement of sharing my passion with my daughter. We were the first party on the route and finished it in 4.5 hours

1974 on the Durrance with large Hexentric nuts, bong-bong pitons, and "Robbins boots". In 1974 you still needed to get "checked out and approved" by the Park Rangers. (photo by Steve Schofield)

Starting up the Leaning Column pitch, a long time ago.

Martha Campbell struts her stuff on the first pitch up to the start of the Durrance Route.

I learned form my first attempt and brought this for lap two. 1 full run of cams, (doubles .5 & .75) [#5 is optional placed it twice but neither felt crazy necessary] nuts 4-10, 3 tri cams, hexes 4-5, 4 QDs, 3 alpine draws, & 4 dbl lengths. Bailey direct.

Dan finishes off the short face climb at the top of Bailey Direct pitch. It's a fun face climb after a day of off-widths. This short portion can be protected with a #4 camalot in the crack on the left. (Photo credit: Dave G.)

looking down the durance. keith on the right

Leader's perspective looking down the Durrance Crack...

Rappelling off Durrance in the dark. Be sure to watch out for your rope getting caught in the cracks

My good friend having on Durrance

Early morning shot of the SE face of Devils Tower: taken Aug 2001

Locked, cocked, and trying not to die (he dropped the rope backpack before climbing)

Durrance - 1974 Painter's Pants, pitons and doubled biner's (no slings) !

coming down

This is what you can expect for most of the belay ledges on Durance. Two or three bolts at about chest height, very solid.

Jenni and her friend flew from Oregon with the specific intent of climbing Durrance. It's always a RUSH watching Newbies react...<br>

At the tipy top of Bear Lodge

1,2,3, JUMP!

Just after completing the Durrance pitch. Don't forget to thrutch hard on this pitch in particular, and please remember not to die.

Mahlon Hewitt starting the Leaning Column (P1) on the Durrance Route, Devils Tower. Photo by Mike Dirksen.

Cussin

at the first anchors<br>

After leading the 2nd pitch, Josh looks like he's ready for "Hollywood"...<br>

Durrance has the best belay ledges!!

Rope management on the leaning column belay ledge.

Cussin Crack and flake pitch above

Durrance Crack

Danny Rider getting his lean on. Leaning Column pitch. 9-13-19

Danny Rider and John Inzanti seeing Devils Tower up close for the first time. 9-13-19

Climbed Durrance route1950 without <br>
hardware.

Andrew Kuklinski cracks off the direct finish to the Durrance Route

Bob Lewis starts up P1 on Durrance

Summit photo

getting through the chock stone

Here's Jenny Antin starting the the wide step-across section. It's 5.7 climbing here. The #5 is not mandatory, but sure nice to have here.

chimney fun

keith again

Keith on the crux pitch

Durrance

Bailey Direct Finish

Looking down from the top of the leaning column belay ledge.

In This Photo

Brandon Kupczyk

Salt Lake City