Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

All Locations > Wyoming > Devils Tower > Durrance Approach > Durrance (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

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Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

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4.2 from 12 votes

nbollier

Jul 13, 2016

“Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch”

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I did the jump and would highly recommend it to everyone doing the Durrance route. It was both the scariest and most awesome thing ever! If you haven't done the jump traverse, you haven't done the Durrance!

Unhappy partner after the 3rd pitch

Hi-Res image of Durrance /w Bailey's Direct. Note rappellers on Meadows rappel. (There was a lot of lightning in the area)

Trying to figure out what this "trad climbing" is before attempting the second pitch

Proud Paul (8), Kane (6) and dad at the summit, Bowling Alley, Durrance, and Bailey's Direct. (9/10/2015)

Durrance

Topo of the Durrance and Bowling Alley rappels.

Climbers on the first 3 pitches of the Durrance (5/89).<br>
<br>
Photo by Paul Huebner

Climbed Durrance in June 1950 without <br>
hardware

How wide can a 13-year-old smile? Climb Durrance to find out!

Summit Party...

Rappelling off Durrance in the dark. Be sure to watch out for your rope getting caught in the cracks

partner seconding pitch 4 in mid-january. The mass of snow below him is the last belay ledge.

"Softtail" stems up the Leaning Column

looking down the durance. keith on the right

Locked, cocked, and trying not to die (he dropped the rope backpack before climbing)

Leader's perspective looking down the Durrance Crack...

Higher up P2 in 1974 (photo by Steve Schofield)

1974 on the Durrance with large Hexentric nuts, bong-bong pitons, and "Robbins boots". In 1974 you still needed to get "checked out and approved" by the Park Rangers. (photo by Steve Schofield)

Durrance - 1974 Painter's Pants, pitons and doubled biner's (no slings) !

My good friend having on Durrance

I get the 2nd pitch of great gear and two cracks for jammin. It's stiff for the 5.6 grade, in most people's opinions.

Cussin

Just after completing the Durrance pitch. Don't forget to thrutch hard on this pitch in particular, and please remember not to die.

Mahlon Hewitt starting the Leaning Column (P1) on the Durrance Route, Devils Tower. Photo by Mike Dirksen.

Jenni and her friend flew from Oregon with the specific intent of climbing Durrance. It's always a RUSH watching Newbies react...<br>

After leading the 2nd pitch, Josh looks like he's ready for "Hollywood"...<br>

Early morning shot of the SE face of Devils Tower: taken Aug 2001

Durrance has the best belay ledges!!

At the tipy top of Bear Lodge

1,2,3, JUMP!

at the first anchors<br>

Rope management on the leaning column belay ledge.

Durrance crack

I learned form my first attempt and brought this for lap two. 1 full run of cams, (doubles .5 & .75) [#5 is optional placed it twice but neither felt crazy necessary] nuts 4-10, 3 tri cams, hexes 4-5, 4 QDs, 3 alpine draws, & 4 dbl lengths. Bailey direct.

Summit photo

Almost at the top and nothing can beat the excitement of sharing my passion with my daughter. We were the first party on the route and finished it in 4.5 hours

Me above the leaning column, starting on the 'Durrance' pitch. The climb was more fun than expected.

getting through the chock stone

chimney fun

This is what you can expect for most of the belay ledges on Durance. Two or three bolts at about chest height, very solid.

Looking down from the top of the leaning column belay ledge.

Durrance

Here's Jenny Antin starting the the wide step-across section. It's 5.7 climbing here. The #5 is not mandatory, but sure nice to have here.

Starting up the money pitch!

Keith on the crux pitch

Bob Lewis starts up P1 on Durrance

keith again

Starting up the Leaning Column pitch, a long time ago.

Bob Lewis starts up P3 "Cussin Crack"

Shelly at a rest point half way up the Durrance Crack pitch, smiling because she knows she has a #5 Camalot to stick in the top.

unknown climbers on the route<br>

Alison Larsen contemplating the jump traverse.

Andrew Kuklinski cracks off the direct finish to the Durrance Route

coming down

Josh "Wiener" Streifel begins the infamous "Jump Traverse"...

Why do they call it the "Bowling Alley"... it just doesn't make sense...

Climbed Durrance route1950 without <br>
hardware.

Jerry Campbell running up the broken column pitch. Very nice climbing with great gear.

Top of the crux pitch

In This Photo

Brandon Kupczyk

Elmhurst