5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)

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5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)

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Jeromy Markee jamming the splitter crack after the gendarme.

Notch Bivy site. Space for about 4-5 people

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Steph Abegg

Jun 27, 2016

“5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)”

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Nearby Photos

Looking down the North Ridge of Stuart, halfway up the ridge or so.

A view of Ranier on the horizon during sunrise on the approach. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Route Overlay Stuart North Ridge

Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

Approach and Descent map for North Ridge of Stuart.

Feeling small on the approach. The North Ridge of Mt. Stuart follows the background skyline.

Belay ledge midway up the Gendarme

Leading up the splitter P3 thin hands!

A pitch above the upper crux.

Route Overlay for The Gendarme.<br>

This shows the approach and start.

onward and upward

Jeromy on an exposed traverse of the upper ridge.

The complete north ridge of Stuart, from the summit of Argonaut. Picture taken afternoon of 2023-06-17.

Jeromy Markee jamming the splitter crack after the gendarme.

5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)

Notch Bivy site. Space for about 4-5 people

Dan following the 9+ hands pitch

Mike Fu sending the Gendarme in August 2019

View from our bivy in 2019

Dave staring up at the menacing gendarme. Credit: http://chossboys.weebly.com/home/27-hours-an-epic-on-mount-stuart

Fixed cam in the offwidth on the second pitch of the Gendarme.

On the approach with most of the North Ridge visible

Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.

Headed to the summit

Just past a short downclimb on the North Ridge

Just below the gendarme, it's pretty knife edge.

Nearing the base of the intimidating gendarme

Looking down from above the gendarme, a party is visible at the top of pitch 2 of the gendarme.

Jeromy Markee, upper ridge

View of the 5.9+ pitch

North side of Mt. Stuart

This route is epic

Route Overlay Pitches 1-3

Route to the Cascadian Couloir from the summit. This photo is looking SE

Traverse pitch leading to Gendarme pitches.

summit 2000

Chris at the base of Great Gendarm

Moving up the splitter Gendarme

2019.07.28-09:24

great positions on north ridge

Pitch 1 of the lower North Ridge.

soon after this photo, shit hit the fan! below gendarme 2000

Pitch 2 of the lower North Ridge.

Slab crack section. Upper ridge.

This bivy is at about 9225' just below summit (north side). Last bivy until the descent-side bivies also at about 9200'. This looks like two could squeeze uncomfortably for a night.

This bivy is just beyond Great Gendarme pitches. It's at ~9100' and looks like two people could probably squeeze and lay down.

Bivy about 100 feet above 8200' notch - looks big enough for 2.

Don heading up the coulior to gain the middle notch.

lower pitches

Mt Start from south side 6/23. North ridge visible on right

stuart

Challis Cates following the 3rd pitch hand crack, nearing the belay ledge.

5.9 pitch

Taken on the descent from the summit to the col above Sherpa Glacier.