Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

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All Locations > Washington > Central-East Ca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Mt Stuart > The Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)

Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

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onward and upward

Approach and Descent map for North Ridge of Stuart.

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Steph Abegg

Jun 27, 2016

“Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.”

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Nearby Photos

Route Overlay Stuart North Ridge

A view of Ranier on the horizon during sunrise on the approach. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Looking down the North Ridge of Stuart, halfway up the ridge or so.

Dave staring up at the menacing gendarme. Credit: http://chossboys.weebly.com/home/27-hours-an-epic-on-mount-stuart

onward and upward

Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

Approach and Descent map for North Ridge of Stuart.

Belay ledge midway up the Gendarme

Route Overlay for The Gendarme.<br>

5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)

Pitch 2 of the lower North Ridge.

Pitch 1 of the lower North Ridge.

Taken on the descent from the summit to the col above Sherpa Glacier.

Fixed cam in the offwidth on the second pitch of the Gendarme.

After crossing the Glacier

View of the 5.9+ pitch

Traverse pitch leading to Gendarme pitches.

Route Overlay Pitches 1-3

Starting up Stuart

North side of Mt. Stuart

Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shape to bypass it.

Scoping out downclimb

A pitch above the upper crux.

This shows the approach and start.