Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Mt Stuart > Direct N Ridge (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)

Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

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Route Overlay Stuart North Ridge

Approach and Descent map for North Ridge of Stuart.

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4.9 from 21 votes

Steph Abegg

Jun 27, 2016

“Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.”

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Nearby Photos

Looking down the North Ridge of Stuart, halfway up the ridge or so.

A view of Ranier on the horizon during sunrise on the approach. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Route Overlay Stuart North Ridge

Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

Approach and Descent map for North Ridge of Stuart.

Belay ledge midway up the Gendarme

Leading up the splitter P3 thin hands!

A pitch above the upper crux.

Feeling small on the approach. The North Ridge of Mt. Stuart follows the background skyline.

Route to the Cascadian Couloir from the summit. This photo is looking SE

This shows the approach and start.

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Jeromy on an exposed traverse of the upper ridge.

Route Overlay for The Gendarme.<br>

Notch Bivy site. Space for about 4-5 people

Jeromy Markee jamming the splitter crack after the gendarme.

Dave staring up at the menacing gendarme. Credit: http://chossboys.weebly.com/home/27-hours-an-epic-on-mount-stuart

Nearing the base of the intimidating gendarme

5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)

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Looking down from above the gendarme, a party is visible at the top of pitch 2 of the gendarme.

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Chris at the base of Great Gendarm

Jeromy Markee, upper ridge

Traverse pitch leading to Gendarme pitches.

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Moving up the splitter Gendarme

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Pitch 1 of the lower North Ridge.

Route Overlay Pitches 1-3

Pitch 2 of the lower North Ridge.

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Challis Cates following the 3rd pitch hand crack, nearing the belay ledge.

Taken on the descent from the summit to the col above Sherpa Glacier.

Slab crack section. Upper ridge.

Don heading up the coulior to gain the middle notch.

Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.

Fixed cam in the offwidth on the second pitch of the Gendarme.

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5.9 pitch