Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.

All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Mt Stuart > Direct N Ridge (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)

Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.

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Don heading up the coulior to gain the middle notch.

A view of Ranier on the horizon during sunrise on the approach. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

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Steph Abegg

Jun 27, 2016

“Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.”

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Nearby Photos

A view of Ranier on the horizon during sunrise on the approach. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Looking down the North Ridge of Stuart, halfway up the ridge or so.

Route Overlay Stuart North Ridge

Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

Approach and Descent map for North Ridge of Stuart.

Belay ledge midway up the Gendarme

Leading up the splitter P3 thin hands!

This shows the approach and start.

onward and upward

A pitch above the upper crux.

Jeromy on an exposed traverse of the upper ridge.

Route Overlay for The Gendarme.<br>

Notch Bivy site. Space for about 4-5 people

Feeling small on the approach. The North Ridge of Mt. Stuart follows the background skyline.

Jeromy Markee jamming the splitter crack after the gendarme.

Dave staring up at the menacing gendarme. Credit: http://chossboys.weebly.com/home/27-hours-an-epic-on-mount-stuart

5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)

soon after this photo, shit hit the fan! below gendarme 2000

Looking down from above the gendarme, a party is visible at the top of pitch 2 of the gendarme.

Headed to the summit

This route is epic

North side of Mt. Stuart

Jeromy Markee, upper ridge

Traverse pitch leading to Gendarme pitches.

View of the 5.9+ pitch

2019.07.28-09:24

Moving up the splitter Gendarme

great positions on north ridge

Pitch 1 of the lower North Ridge.

Route Overlay Pitches 1-3

Pitch 2 of the lower North Ridge.

Route to the Cascadian Couloir from the summit.

Slab crack section. Upper ridge.

Taken on the descent from the summit to the col above Sherpa Glacier.

summit 2000

5.9 pitch

stuart

Fixed cam in the offwidth on the second pitch of the Gendarme.

lower pitches

Don heading up the coulior to gain the middle notch.

Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.