Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.

All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Mt Stuart > Direct N Ridge (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)

Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.

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Chris at the base of Great Gendarm

Aldan following the first pitch on the Great Gendarme

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4.7 from 3 votes

Steph Abegg

Jun 27, 2016

“Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.”

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Nearby Photos

Looking down the North Ridge of Stuart, halfway up the ridge or so.

A view of Ranier on the horizon during sunrise on the approach. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

Feeling small on the approach. The North Ridge of Mt. Stuart follows the background skyline.

A pitch above the upper crux.

Leading up the splitter P3 thin hands!

Belay ledge midway up the Gendarme

Jeromy on an exposed traverse of the upper ridge.

onward and upward

This shows the approach and start.

Mike Fu sending the Gendarme in August 2019

Notch Bivy site. Space for about 4-5 people

The complete north ridge of Stuart, from the summit of Argonaut. Picture taken afternoon of 2023-06-17.

View from our bivy in 2019

Jeromy Markee jamming the splitter crack after the gendarme.

5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)

Evan following me up The Gendarme with some new friends hanging out below. Completely underestimated this Queen of a route

Euro Mik demonstrates proper European style during a very fun ascent of the direct north ridge

Looking down the North Ridge from near the summit, a party is visible at the top of pitch 2 of the gendarme.

Dan following the 9+ hands pitch

Nearing the base of the imposing gendarme

Just below the gendarme on the knife edge.

Dave staring up at the menacing gendarme. Credit: http://chossboys.weebly.com/home/27-hours-an-epic-on-mount-stuart

Route to the Cascadian Couloir from the summit. This photo is looking SE

Headed to the summit

Chris at the base of Great Gendarm

Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.

Aldan following the first pitch on the Great Gendarme

Slab crack section. Upper ridge.

Mt. Stuart North Ridge Approach/Descent Options.

Jeromy Markee, upper ridge

North side of Mt. Stuart

This route is epic

View of the 5.9+ pitch

On the approach with most of the North Ridge visible

Fixed cam in the offwidth on the second pitch of the Gendarme.

Just past a short downclimb on the North Ridge

Traverse pitch leading to Gendarme pitches.

2019.07.28-09:24

Pitch 1 of the lower North Ridge.

Route Overlay Lower North Ridge.

This bivy is at about 9225' just below summit (north side). Last bivy until the descent-side bivies also at about 9200'. This looks like two could squeeze uncomfortably for a night.

This bivy is just beyond Great Gendarme pitches. It's at ~9100' and looks like two people could probably squeeze and lay down.

Bivy about 100 feet above 8200' notch - looks big enough for 2.

Route Overlay Gendarme.

Mt Start from south side 6/23. North ridge visible on right

stuart

Challis Cates following the 3rd pitch hand crack, nearing the belay ledge.

Route Overlay Mt. Stuart Direct/Complete North Ridge.

great positions on north ridge

Don heading up the coulior to gain the middle notch.

soon after this photo, shit hit the fan! below gendarme 2000

summit 2000

Moving up the splitter Gendarme

Pitch 2 of the lower North Ridge.

Taken on the descent from the summit to the col above Sherpa Glacier.

lower pitches

5.9 pitch

The 5.9+ splitter 3rd pitch. Incredible! Hard to say since the upper crux pitches are also very good, but this might have been my favorite pitch on the whole route.

The thrutchy 5.8 pitch to start the route. Not technically that difficult, but definitely more awkward and burly than the 5.9 pitch above.

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