Early season (June 2016) conditions on the north side of Vesper. We crossed the snow field to get to the base of the route, but the route itself was mostly dry.

All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Darrington & Mt… > Glacier Peak Wi… > Vesper Peak > Ragged Edge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Early season (June 2016) conditions on the north side of Vesper. We crossed the snow field to get to the base of the route, but the route itself was mostly dry.

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Cloud inversion chasing us up the final pitch.

Trundled a loose block from just below the p4 anchor on 7/10/23. It goes without saying, but don't assume well-traveled routes are hazard free!

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Steph Abegg

Jun 23, 2016

“Early season (June 2016) conditions on the north side of Vesper. We crossed the snow field to get to the base of the route, but the route itself was mostly dry.”

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Nearby Photos

View from the last (and IMO best) pitch of the route.

Topo by Darin Berdinka

Oren following Ragged Edge

Coming up the final section of P6

Pitch 6

Start of Pitch 1 (5.6 thin layback flake)

From top of P2

Nick Roy enjoying the traverse right after pitch 4.

approach ledges for North Face routes

Route (original start) starts here (the phrase "thin flake" had me questioning)

Oren following Ragged Edge

Cloud inversion chasing us up the final pitch.

Early season (June 2016) conditions on the north side of Vesper. We crossed the snow field to get to the base of the route, but the route itself was mostly dry.

Trundled a loose block from just below the p4 anchor on 7/10/23. It goes without saying, but don't assume well-traveled routes are hazard free!

Following on Pitch 5. It is less vertical but feels as exposed as the image implies.

Leader on Ragged Edge taken from Fish & Whistle

The second-to-last pitch: Nate starting up, and Josh belaying from above. Photo by Nicolas Michal; posted with permission from him.

Sam at the moss carpet at the end of the route. This final section makes you appreciate all of Darin's efforts cleaning the few hundred feet of face below this point.

The ragged edge pitch (last pitch to the top).

The slabby, low 5 first pitch

Nick Roy leading on Ragged Edge.

looking down P1

looking down P3 from the belay

looking back on P5 traverse from the bolted belay on the prow

Traverse on Ragged Edge

Taken from atop the layback section of P1, I believe this is the white dike. The person is at the the P2 bolted anchor. Lots of places to build a meh gear anchor, but I couldn't find an obvious spot for a good anchor.

P2 gear anchor location (bigger gear -- 0.75 / 1 / 2s), looking up at P3. Climb up and to climber's left, onto the arete, and up to the right towards the next bolted anchor.

Looking down the route from pitch 5 anchors.

Vesper Peak, North Face

Climbers on Ragged Edge, August 14, 2022. Photo taken from True Grit.

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