Thin hands

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Castle Valley > Sister Superior… > Jah Man (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b)

Thin hands

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Sweet thin hands splitter on the third pitch!

Looking down while Tony Bubb comes up the top pitch of Jah Man. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 1999(?)

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Nick Schlichtman

May 22, 2016

“Thin hands”

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Nearby Photos

Getting close to Sister Superior, looking back toward Parriot and the Nuns? Gorgeous.

Sister Superior

There are good belays and there are good belays...

great day for a kite

Third pitch.

3rd pitch.

Top of the spire, ma!

josh toasting some buns on the summit.
<br>
he made a promise to everyone that his ass would be tanner than our faces by the end of the trip, and he kept his word.

Rapping the anchors to the right.

Summit shot with Castleton and the Rectory in the background.

Sister Superior showing Jah Man

rapping down jah man. easily done in 3 raps with a 70m

The new Jah Man Route after first pitch fell off last week.

George Armstrong on Jah Man.<br>
Photo by Todd Gordon Mon.

Finally above the fog into blinding sunshine. Castle Valley shows its beauty.

Route topo for Jah Man.<br>
<br>
A 70m makes it from the top of the chimney to the ground with room to spare.

Sweet thin hands splitter on the third pitch!

Thin hands

Looking down while Tony Bubb comes up the top pitch of Jah Man. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 1999(?)

Hiking up the approach trail. You can see the whole route in this photo.

birds

on top

Jah Man<br>

Tim Foulkes replacing a 1/4 inch bolt on the last pitch of Jah Man. Somebody buy that guy a dank soda!

Steve Tweito coming up pitch 4. Nice view of the ridge running to Castleton.

About to go for the approach!

New line

Summit bolt

Brad, Travis and John on the summit.

Darren "sport-climbing" on the last pitch.<br>
<br>
Beta: You can see the old star-drive bolts and the drilled pin. The drilled pin seemed "good" by desert standards and is clippable from the stance. It is the best bolt on the pitch, and it protects the crux move. The rest of them seemed only good for holding a quick draw.

Peter Metcalf starting into the goods right off the ground

'mornin' Sista

Optional rap route. From the top of the Sister Squeeze flake/pillar you can rap off to the right and hit the ground with one 60m rope. This seemed to be a cleaner rap option then going off the belay anchors on top of P2.

The Squeeze.

The Reverie and Castleton Tower from the base of Jah Man.

Yours truly rocking the Casbah on the sister squeeze.

Matt traverses left on the tricky crux of Jah Man.

Tony Bubb near topping out high over the valley on Jah Man. Photo by Joseffa Meir, 1999(?).

Chino Parada on P3

Jah Man

Hell of an approach, but the climb was bone dry. I am seen here fighting the windburn with all of my might.

the plaque at the base of Jah Man

Before and After the flake on P1 fell.

Tristan Hechtel leading the great hand crack on pitch 4

The new Pitch 3. 5.12 calcite fingers

Happy to be on top

Angela Van Stein taping up for our summer ascent

Pointing towards Arches NP, 1997.

P2 meets P3 (Gear anchor)

Its a looooooong slog up to the Sister.

The Sister Squeeze pitch...

Paul Ross on the Summit 1995 with Andy Ross

WOOOOO

The squeeze

As of May 19, 2017 the summit anchors were pretty sketchy. The newest bolt pulls clear out of the rock. The old piton and ancient angle don't inspire confidence.

Jah Man<br>
Photo by Aerili

Jah Man Base Clean Up:
<br>
Green Line: 5.10 (Original Initial moves to start)
<br>
Blue Line: TR'd @ 5.10+ (Cleaned/ 1st 20' still dirty)
<br>
Black Line: TR'd @ 5.11+ (Cleaned/ 1st 20' still dirty)
<br>
Yellow Line: TR'd @ 5.11
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Red Line: TR'd @ 5.12

3 raps (with one 70m) and 2 raps (with double 60m)

Starting the third pitch-- tight hands- the bane of my existence!

Taken from the bowels of the chimney