So this happened the other day - careful on the choss folks. The rock surrounding the first bolt ripped when the climber was "boinking" higher up on Brass Monkey, with a portion including the bolt slidding down the rope. Somehow the bigger chunks missed us and no one was hurt.<br>
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Lessons learned: not really sure, other than don't place bolts in shit rock...other than that seriously, there is some lose rock on the routes next to the waterfall, so DO NOT climb when people are playing in the water below them on a busy summer day. It's not worth it.
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KurtH
May 2, 2016
So this happened the other day - careful on the choss folks. The rock surrounding the first bolt ripped when the climber was "boinking" higher up on Brass Monkey, with a portion including the bolt slidding down the rope. Somehow the bigger chunks missed us and no one was hurt.

Lessons learned: not really sure, other than don't place bolts in shit rock...other than that seriously, there is some lose rock on the routes next to the waterfall, so DO NOT climb when people are playing in the water below them on a busy summer day. It's not worth it.
The MCA is actively working on updating Bolts at Willow. Old rawl 5 piece bolt and hanger combo/s are being replaces with glue in bolts. The locations will also be checked to ensure what happened in the picture does not happen.

Also, when belaying be sure to be close to the wall to not put outward forces on bolts. Along those same lines, don't back clean a route past half way. The swing from doing this and also pulling in on the bolts puts forces on the bolts that were not intended. It is always best to clean the steep lines on top rope to prevent a huge swing. May 3, 2016

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