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Pecker in an overlap.
ID 111351267

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  4.0 from 1 vote

Mark Hudon
Nov 25, 2015
Pecker in an overlap.  
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Wow...freaky placement, Mark & Skot. Bounce testing that most have been exciting. Jul 23, 2016
Mark Hudon
Lives on the road
Mark Hudon   Lives on the road
We did clip the top loop on others but not this one for some reason. This is Skot's placement. He weighs 150 or so.
It could be argued that clipping only on the bottom loop would cam the blade into the crack more securely if that part of the crack was thinner. It could also be argued that clipping into only the top could cause the piece to pull straight out.

I was freaked when I started using the Peckers this way but there was enough of it on this route that we both got to pretty used to it by the end.

It's a judgment call really. The motto I use on aid is: "make your best placement, bounce the hell out of it, get on it and forget about it."

Freerider, NIAD (first 60 year old team) and something like Tempest or Sea of Dreams.

Cheers Nov 27, 2015
Kauait
Sandy Utah
Kauait   Sandy Utah
Mark. Huge respect/big fan.but Shouldn't that piece be clipped through your tie off on the upper hole of the beak? Seems like (as pictured) that would create more force by camming your beak out! I'm a 176+ pound guy and I'm sure I would have pulled that out with a lite bounce test..I guess what I'm saying I'm to many beers deep and stuck at home and wishing I was standing on something that scares me.. nice climb (Genesis) well done. What's next?
Nov 26, 2015

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